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PondYachtworks in Scottsdale, AZ.  Star 45

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[Star45] Winch? Which Winch?

Winch? Which Winch?
From: "Douglas" Subject: [Star45] Winch? Which Winch?
To: Star45@yahoogroups.com

Is the Hitec HS-785HB Sail Winch Servo enough for the star or is the RMG the must have for the star? Is there any other options, better options with regards to a drum servo? Is the drum the best choice? What's your opinion, I'd very much appreciate it?

Doug
--
From: "jfisher"

I have not use an arm winch for years, but one difference I found was that they tend to use more power than the RMG. I usually use about 600 mah in 3 hours of sailing with an RMG. So I run 1340 lipo’s and swap at lunch on a big regatta or not at all on club days. Only 80g for the battery. I usually use more battery out of the TX than the boat.

I also don’t like that the power of an arm winch changes depending of your sheeting. On my M it used to sheet out while reaching on the puffs. With the RMG this doesn’t happen. I have considered the new digital ¼ scale servo’s since they are super fast. Now you can gybe without losing speed.

If you want a cheap drum and have not used an RMG before the Hitech drum winch is a good choice, about $50. But once you sail with an RMG with its quicker speed you wont want to go back. Also you will need a more advanced radio to change the sheeting length as it only turn 3.5 turns, while the RMG has programmable travel.

--
From: Larry Ludwig

The Futaba 5801 is an excellent choice for the Star 45, and has one particularly nice feature in the form of a set screw that allows you to dial the travel length right there with the winch installed. It is also considerbly cheaper. The winch retails for $149.00 from www.towerhobbies.com and they have a special right now for a $150 order take off $15.00 so $135.00 and it may even qualify for free shipping. Smoking deal.

Personally, I prefer a swing arm over the drum winches because of reliability. I know several guys that swear that they have never had a drum "spool off" but I am the opposite, I have never had one that did NOT spool off at one point. Just my .02 but I don't know of a swing arm winch that I like for the Star, they are either too big or too small. If I was to pick one, I would say the Ozman or Probar, I think those are still available.

posted by Dave_Mainwaring  # Tuesday, April 28, 2009

Now come the questions... ;-) 12.28.08

"tony.crouch"

I'm going to order a CPM keel bulb and I'm wondering how it will attach to the plywood Mainwaring keel. I don't want to start sanding and fairing the keel until I know how that's going to work.
--
"Dave Mainwaring"

Here is how I mounted an aluminum fin to the hull so that it could be removed (interchangeable keels) ths method should also work for wooden fins.

http://star-45.blogspot.com/2006/08/s45-construction-keel-trunk-alignment.html#links

Dave Mainwaring

--
"J Fisher"

Here is how I attach the bulb. First I mark the center of gravity of the bulb. This is done by balancing the bulb on a small PC of rod. Once I have the CG located, I float the boat with the lead on top of the deck. Then adjust the bulb location until the transom is just out of the water. The bulb CG can then be measured in reference to the keel bolts. The fin is already to max depth so it should go through to the bottom of the bulb when fitted. Also the bulb seems to have an upward tip already so I just have it sit on the table for correct tilt with the fin sitting vertical.

I then trim the hole in the bulb and the fin until the bulb ends up in the right spot. The fin is easier to cut than the bulb. I use a chisel and file to enlarge the hole in the bulb. The fin is pretty much completed by this time, i.e. Shaped and glassed. Once everything fits correctly, I place the fin into the bulb and drill a hole for the roll pin or pins depending on the fin location (see note below). I install the pin, then use something like steel epoxy to fill the bottom of the hole. It is a two part epoxy clay that you buy in a roll, cut to length then mash together to cure. I use the under water version which is white. Once the bottom of the bulb is closed off, I pour in epoxy from the top to full any voids and seal everything. Then I fair the keel to the bulb with more of the epoxy clay. Then sand and paint.

To prep the bulb I use my orbital sander to sand down the bulb and remove any imperfections. This goes really fast with the sander. Please take appropriate caution when dealing with lead, wear a respirator and wash hands before eating. Once it is mounted I coat with epoxy then sand smooth.

Since I put my fins farther aft than the current plan location my bulbs end up sticking pretty far forward of the fin. About 1" further aft than the plans. I used the same location as Scott Rowland does in his tuning guide. This location seems to work well for heavy air, but does require you to steer the boat down wind. It also adds some lee helm in the really light stuff requiring the rig to be moved well aft to balance. With traveling to regatta's you never know what the wind will be like so I need a good all around boat. I would make a different choice if I always sailed in light conditions.

John
--

Philgeren@...
phil_geren

I just want to add a couple of things to John Fisher's great answer:
When drilling lead, use a generous amount of cutting fluid (the kind used for lubricating dies when cutting threads in pipe). This will make the drilling easy and prevent the bit from binding in the lead.
Should you waterproof inside the hull? YES. Even the dryest boats get some water inside, and it will be absorbed by the planking if the planking is not waterproofed. You want to be able to drain any water that gets inside, not have it increase the weight of the boat. Two coats of epoxy are recommended on all interior wood surfaces not otherwise waterproofed.
--
"J Fisher"

When I work with the lead bulbs I try not to do anything that requires machining or drilling the lead. The CPM bulb already has a hole for the roll pins and the fin, so you don't have to drill any holes in the lead, just the keel. Lead is so soft that it quickly gums up any cutting tool. Using coolant (water) or cutting oil (plain cooking oil works well) helps, but is messy. With this in mind the last two bulbs I used had the slot opened up with a combination file/chisel I got at Lowes. This was not a quick process but it did work pretty well. A plain wood rasp would probably also work fine. I have also heard that a sherform works well for shaping lead.
--

Philgeren@...
phil_geren

I recently had to change the shape of the keel slot in a lead bulb made in two halves by Phil Runquist, a beautiful dolphin shaped bulb.

The best thing I've found for cutting lead is a common woodworking chisel and a mallet. Lead shaves as easily as wood, and you have total control of the cut by the angle at which you hold the tool. Narrow chisels are easier to use than wide ones. It is best if you build a little jig to hold the bulb stationary while you pound on the chisel.

I mixed the lead shavings with JB Weld (epoxy containing iron powder) and put them back into areas of the slot that needed closing up.

If I have to sand lead, I do it under water, by hand, using wet-or-dry sandpaper, wearing rubber gloves.

The water keeps the lead from dusting and contains it for collection or disposal, keeping it out of your body.

It is important to be meticulous about protecting yourself from lead contamination.
--

Ed Hilton

I am planning on casting my own keel. How much do most of the keels weigh for these boats.
--

Larry Ludwig

I would just want to remind all of you guys that are working with lead that it is extremely toxic, and should never be handled without gloves. You should avoid any skin contact with lead period. Also, if you are planning on casting lead, you should do it OUTSIDE and I mean WAY outside, where the fumes are going away from you. If you can smell it, it can poison you, that is the simple rule. Obviously away from children/pets. When I cast lead I have two large shop fans that I use behind me to make certain that the fumes are moving away. I simply cannot stress strongly enough that this stuff, as with certain paints, and cutting carbon fiber can and will reduce your lifespan, or make what you have left miserable.
--

Ed Hilton

In planning to cast my own blub, How long are your blubs and what is the diameter?

--
"Dave Mainwaring"

Here is a earlier post on casting bulbs:

Wednesday, July 05, 2006

Star 45 R/C model sail boat , making a keel bulb mold and Castings

From Jim Adams:

I made a plug from balsa and finished it to a smooth finish second I used two aluminum pans (the kind that you throw away) I filled the first one with plaster took the bulb (well waxed) and placed it in the plaster half way in I used two pins through the center to hold it down. let that dry then pull out the plug next put thin saran wrap over the mold and place the plug back in the hole.

Now comes the fun part I used rubber bands to hold the plug in place (remember I had two pins that extend past the mold walls) next fill the second pan with plaster and lay the first on top it is kind of messy but it works. When the second half dries (about two hours) pull them apart. You will need to plug the holes at the ends on the sides and create small air path upward in the and a spur (looks like a funnel when you are done this needs to be big enough to pour in the led) at the end.

Billie Geisler's comments regarding "Keel Bulbs 2006 August 1:

I advise against using tire weights for ballast bulbs, because the tire weights seem to be some sort of alloy, and not pure lead. The markings on the weights are a good indicator, as different physically sized weights have the same ounce values stamped on them. So, if you use tire weights, you will have a physically larger bulb to achieve the necessary weight, thus more wetted surface friction, resistance through the water.

I go to the plumbing supply store to buy lead. This lead is much denser than tire weights. The lead comes in various shapes, some like hocky pucks, and some like Snickers bars. The Snickers bars fit into my lead pot better.

Incidentally, fishing supply stores sometimes carry electric lead pots, along with fishing weight molds. Good use for your tire weights. I was lucky enough to find a lead pot at a garage sale, sold by a rifleman who no longer cast his own bullets.

Consider mounting the ballast bulb on the keel fin at an angle, about 1 to 3 degrees up at the front. You can find info on performance of this arrangement on some IOM sites. It makes a substantial difference in boat speed on an IOM.

I cast my bulbs in two plaster of paris molds. One mold for the outer cheeks of the bulb(split fore and aft), and one for a center peice, to go between the cheeks. The thin (about 1/8 inch thick) center peice can be easily cut for fitting the fin, and drilled for adjusting the weight. If I need filler, I mix buckshot with epoxy. I can rough sand the lead with a belt sander, with very course belt. The course belt doesn't fill with lead.

--
Terry Harmer


When I finish a lead bulb I wait until it is on the fin, then I:

Scrape off the rough edges with a knife.
Wipe it thoroughly with alcohol.
Pad the fin and put it in a vise with the small end of the bulb pointing down.
Put a bucket with water right underneath the bulb.
Mix a batch of epoxy and just drip it over the top of the bulb until the bulb is covered.
(The excess epoxy drips off the small end and into the bucket, jar, or whatever.
When cured, I repeat.
When done, you have an almost perfect coating over the bulb.

Now just fill any minor dips, sand and paint.

This ensures that I don't mess with the raw let much.
--

"J Fisher"

I would use around 8 lbs if you plan on sailing in heavy air. If you sail in light air, you can probably get away with a bulb down to 7lbs. I think the blackwells are all about 7.5 lbs. The latest CPM bulbs have been right about 8.5 lbs and the Skid-Do bulbs seemed to be right about 8 lbs.

With the top several boats in the last 2 nationals being well over the 12 lb minimum I don't think overall boat weight is super critical. I do think that having enough lead is more critical than the overall boat weight.

--
"Dave Mainwaring"
Someone asked about shapes an sizes.

I like keels that resemble in some manner the "Scheel Keel". Flat bottoms help fight heeling. My version was based on my sailing in waters with lilies and pond grass that snagged torpedo shaped bulbs. I liked being able to back away and have the crap slide off the keel.

http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/5587/620/400/Sirius%2045%2006.jpg




http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/5587/620/400/Sirius%2045%2002.jpg




Here is a photo of the original Mainwaring Keel ad Mainwaring Bulb

http://photos1.blogger.com/x/blogger/5587/620/400/353321/Sirius45Keel.jpg

A simple jib TWITCHER to set side of jib-club-boom

Drum Servo with Jib Tweaker from Dave Ramos

From: David Ramos To: Star45@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Fri, 14 Nov 2008 10:23 am
The following photos show my set up for a drum servo and jib tweaker.

http://www.rcyachts.com/STAR45/P1010084.JPG


http://www.rcyachts.com/STAR45/P1010082.JPG


Main sheet is 2:1 and jib sheet is 1:1

Hope this helps
David Ramos
Chesapeake Performance Models
227 Main Street
Stevensville, MD 21666
david@rcyachts.com
www.rcyachts.com

fiberglass notes

From: jfisher@wildblue.net
Sender: Star45@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 11:48:10 -0700 (MST)
Subject: Re: [Star45] Fiber glass vs just sealing the boat

Based on the damage to Phil's boat at the blackwell, I would not recommend
a bare balsa hull. If glass is hard to find, use pantyhose as your
fabric. You should seal the hull with epoxy and the glass adds a small
amount of weight.

my next boats are going to be 1/16 ply sides, 3/32 cedar bottoms and then
a .5 oz layer of glass over the bottom. I think the sides should either
be ply or have glass to prevent punctures in the case of contact. Decks
will be 1/64 ply that is painted. The decks are weak and if I get hit
while heeled over I could get holed, but that is a risk I am willing to
take.

My boats with the two layers of 3.2 oz glass over balsa have held up well.
They have been hit and the damage has been limited to the deck where the
rails flexed when hit.

John

fiberlass notes

From: david@rcyachts.com
Sender: Star45@yahoogroups.com
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2007 23:50:17 +0000
Subject: Re: [Star45] Re: Epoxy Finish

Larry Very well said I could not agree with you more.
I would add to your paint selections with Chromabase\Chromaclear by DuPont. This is a two stage auto paint with a base coat \ clear coat. I have used it for the past five years and it is great. Base cost can be made in any color and dries in 15min to the point that you can tape it to add a second color or more layers of colors. The clear coat is an epoxy and is formulated to bond with the base coat, becomes touchable in an hour so it keeps dust contamination to a min. Also because there is no clear in the base coat the layers are thinner and if you do two light coats of clear, let set overnight and then wetsand with 320 and spray one last coat the next day the seam or step between colors is invisable and the finish is very very hard. I agree that Imron is fantastic stuff but would not recomend it to the hobbiest because it can cause lung failure. If you can smell it you have smelled too much. That includes the outgassing during drying. If you realy want to use it, take your boat to an autobody shop the uses it and give them a six pack of beer and have the spray your boat before he empties the gun. They will toss more paint then is needed to paint one of our boats.
Hope this helps!
Dave Ramos

fiberlass notes

From: "John F. Howard"
Sender: Star45@yahoogroups.com
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2007 10:08:21 -0500
Subject: RE: [Star45] Re: Epoxy Finish

Al, Epoxies stink a lot less than polyester resins (saves problems with the other half, neighbors etc) Epoxies can be clear to allow the wood to show thru (they will need a coat of UV Varnish to protect them or the epoxy will turn amber), polyester resin is not clear, usually has a green or blue non-transparent tint. Epoxies have a greater adhesion to wood Epoxies are a little softer than polyester, but for our use the difference can’t be seen or felt. Epoxies have a longer pot life and working time Epoxies are a little more flexible in the mix ratio (one or 2 drops one way or the other won’t make a difference with epoxy where a drop too much or too little of catalyst with polyester can make it set up too quick or not at all). Epoxies cost more than polyester, but the above advantages out way the cost. Epoxies do not expand like the polyurethane glues (Gorilla Glue) and additives can be used to modify the strength (colloidal silica for strength, micro balloons to lighten and make sanding of fillets easier) Epoxies take less fill coats over fiberglass than polyurethane (water or solvent based) Those are just a few reasons off the top of my head and I am sure there are more pro and con.

fiberglass notes

rom: Philgeren@aol.com
Sender: Star45@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 11:57:30 EDT
Subject: Re: [Star45] Epoxy Finish

Cathy,
Please be aware that epoxy is not imune to the damaging effects of sunlight.
Sunlight (especially the UV wavelengths) destroy epoxy.
You must varnish (using a varnish containing sunscreen, such as Spar varnish) or paint epoxy to protect it from sunlight.
Kind regards,
Phil Geren

fiberglass notes

From: Terry Forbes
Sender: Star45@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 06:53:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: [Star45] Epoxy Finish

Hi Kathy: Terry is south Florida. I have had this problem with one of my sons boats. We took the boat and removed all the hardware and fittings and wet sanded it down with 220 - 400 grit paper. We then mask off the deck as it is wood strips with clear spar varnish. We used Spray Poof Cans of Plasti-Coat from K-Mart. We used white primer with sanding and then a finish coat of white gloss. This finish is light and holds up well here in Florida. We sail in fresh and salt water. My older son's and my boat has Interlux white boat paint for the finish. We used foam brushes and thinned the paint so that it flowed out leaving a really nice glossy finish. We gave our hulls two coats with wet sanding between applications. We did not use any primer and put the paint directly on the epoxy finish. You will wan! t to wipe the hull down with the interlux cleaner prior to painting. You can see two or our boats in the photos "Terry's Lucky Star" The white boat has the interlux and the yellow hull is plasti-coat. Happy sailing Terry

clandergan wrote: Hi, When I came back to school from the summer I had a surprise. One of the boats we had painted white was now yellow brown. It seams that as the epoxy cures, it gets a lot darker. Do you hav! e any thoughts on how one gets a nice white finish? How would I go about rescuing this boat? Thanks, Cathy

fiberglass notes

From: "David Ramos"
Sender: Star45@yahoogroups.com
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 11:25:22 -0400
Subject: RE: [Star45] Fiberglass deformation from cradle

Mitch You might try taking a hair dryer and GENTLY heat the hull in the area of deformation and if you can reach it on the inside press the hull out. You want to just heat the hull in the area around the deformation enough to get it to relax a bit. Be careful to not scorch the hull. Take your time and then let it set upside down to cool. I used this technique (but used a heat gun) to fix an older EC12 that did the same thing. Was your keel attached? If so make some sort of support to take the weight of the keel and use the hull cradle to keep it on the wall but not support the weight of the boat.

fiberglass notes

From: "J Fisher"
Sender: Star45@yahoogroups.com
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 08:17:20 -0700 (Mountain Standard Time)
Subject: Re: [Star45] Fiberglass deformation from cradle

Mitch, Unfortunately there is nothing I have found that will undo the damage. It is a problem with fiberglass hulls. If you apply force and heat them up they will take on a new shape. I have this happen in the cradle like you did and in the car. I have had my M fins warp from sitting in the car while I sail. If you can apply heat and some opposite pressure you might be able to get the line out, but most likely it is permanent. John

fiberlass notes

From: "Mitch Martin"
Sender: Star45@yahoogroups.com
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 13:40:17 -0000
Subject: [Star45] Fiberglass deformation from cradle

I cleaned my garage a few weeks ago and moved my Blackwell Star from
the cradle which supported the hull with straps to a wall mount that
uses shelf arms covered in foam. The hull is now indented about 3
inches forward of the rudder post. I have turned the boat over so it
is now sitting on the deck, and hopefully this will fix the problem
over time.

Has anybody had the same problem and what did you do to repair it?

Mitch

fiberlass notes

From: Dave Mainwaring
Sender: Star45@yahoogroups.com
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2007 18:06:15 -0500
Subject: Re: [Star45] Re: Construction question

so it can be sanded easily and keep the weight down.

Depending on the size of the gaps a couple of choices would be:
automotive spot putty is good, not bothered by epoxy or poly and sandable.
Another would be using automotive "Bondo" putty which is a resin with filler used for autobody work.

Micro and macro balloons both glass and phenolic mixed in resin are good also. Balloons may be difficult to find and they are a little like working with talcum powder, stuff is so light it flies around:)

I've used a lot of spot putty over the years you can get the stuff at any auto parts store that sells touch up paint. I still use it around the house for filling nicks in painted surfaces that get scratched. I think it is acrylic based, smells like acrylic lacquer.

I also have used a lot of Bondo over the years since it strong (hardens like a rock) and can be used to fillet pieces of wood in place. Mix a lump of Bondo with a smidge of Bondo hardener, use your finger to run a bead down along side the joint and in minutes it is ready to sand and paint if outside the hull.

Long and uneven gaps on a 45 inch model can't call for a lot of filler.

I've know big boat builders who make resin-foam blocks using pasta :) to add air in the resin to fill floatation areas.

If you have large gaps (1/8 inch or more) then that is another issue. You can also use a can of spray-in foam from Home Depot if you have serious gaps and then scrape off the hardened foam when the crack is filled. Hopefully the workmanship has left not been that .....

Seriously, how much weight can a crack filler add to the hull's weight?

Uncle D.

fiberlass notes

From: "John Howard"
Sender: Star45@yahoogroups.com
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2007 17:03:19 -0000
Subject: [Star45] Re: Epoxy resins and hardeners for glassing hulls

Dave, Sticker shock, ouch? West Systems Epoxy is expensive but good stuff. The quart size will work for several hulls, so buy only what you need, it has a fairly long shelf life if store properly ( a couple of years, not 20). Check the West Systems web page under product info http://www.westsystem.com/ . Lots of good info, but a lot of reading also. The nice thing about epoxy is the low or nearly non-existant oder. The bad thing, some people can be come sensitized to it so wearing gloves, a mask (organic vapor type), a long sleeve shirt, etc. is recommended. More info on the web site. The fiberglass, 9 oz., seems heavy IMHO, 2 layers may be overkill and give you a floating tank. Are you planning on running over the competition and win by atrition? :) That's if you can catch the lighter boats.

I would use a max of 6 oz. cloth. Check and see what others say. Suggest you start with 2 oz. for the first batch and adjust as you go, you will soon figure out how much you need for the hull and the weight of the glass you are using. Get and use the pumps, it makes measuring out the correct ratio so much easier. West Systems, using the 105 Resin with either 205 Fast Hardener (9-12 min working) or 206 Slow Hardener (20-25 min working) will give you enough time to mix additional resin if needed. As long as the additional resin is applied to the first batch while still green (soft) there will be no problem as the new batch will still chemically bond with the previous batch. Once the resin has hardened completly, it will need to be sanded to provide a surface that will mechanically bond to the next resin coat. Cedar Strip Canoe builders do it (mix additional resin) all the time when they fiberglass a hull. Pot life for mixed epoxy can be extended slightly by pouring it into a shallow container (pie pan). Left in a mixing cup, the heat generated by the chemical reaction during curing will set up faster and unused (left over) epoxy can get hot enough to melt a plastic container/cup. Recomend not to use alcohol for thinning, it will change the chemical properties of the epoxy, weakening its strength and water resistance and if too much is used, may not set up.

If you need to thin the epoxy, warm the surface (hull) with a heat gun, this will thin it out and also speed up (lessen the working time) the curing time. When I fuel proof a model airplane, I put the epoxy on straight and then hit it briefly with the heat gun. You do not need to raise the temperature much. As you apply heat, you will see it thin and spread. When cooled, the epoxy will have all of its original strength and water resistance. Denatured Alcohol has no water in it, unlike your drugstore Isopropyl Alcohol 70%(Rubbing Alcohol) which can have up to 30% water in it. Isopropyl is also available as 90%. Use Denatured Alcohol, Acetone or Lacquer Thinner for clean up and depose of the materials (rags, paper towels, gloves and uncured resins and hardeners) properly. See the West Systems web page for more info under the Tab: Using West Systems Epoxy. There are other epoxy systems out there such a MAS, System 3, RAKA and others, but I do not have experience with these brands, West Systems is as close as my local marine supply store. You might also check some of the model shops for Zap Z-poxy finishing resin, don't know how well it will work or the cost in comparison, but some model airplaners use it. Hope I haven't scared you off from fiberglassing you hull. It is easy and safe IF you follow precautions. Good Luck. John

fiberglass notes

Sender: Star45@yahoogroups.com
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2007 09:00:27 -0700 (Mountain Standard Time)
Subject: Re: [Star45] Epoxy resins and hardeners for glassing hulls

The best way to save $$ on epoxy is buy larger containers. I used to buy the qt's and now I buy the gallon resin and qt hardner. I use 10 to 12 pumps which I am told is 1 oz/pump to do 2 layers of 3 oz cloth. So one layer of 9 would be 15 to 18 pumps. So one quart will do more than one hull, probably 2 or 3 if you stretch it. I use IPA to thin the epoxy for sealing the inside, but I would not do that on the outside with glass. If the epoxy gets too thin you get a lot of pin holes. You can also make the epoxy thinner by adding heat with a hair dryer. Adding heat will make it kick faster, so this can really impact your pot life on the 205 hardner. Also tall narrow containers will reduce pot life. I used 207 which is the most UV stable hardner on my last hull. John -------Original Message------- From: davemainwaring Date: 1/27/2007 8:29:33 AM To: Star45@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Star45] Epoxy resins and hardeners for glassing hulls Having not purchased resin for twenty years it heart stopping to see
the current prices. What is the best way to save on buying resin and
hardeners.

How much resin is needed to saturate one or two layers of 9oz cloth on
a Star45 hull?

Will a quart of west 105 and .44pt 206 hardener do more than one
hull?($50.00)

An earlier post mentioned thinning epoxy with alcohol.
Good idea yes/no? What is needed for clean up?h

Uncle Dave

fiberglass notes

Sender: Star45@yahoogroups.com
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2007 08:19:49 -0700 (Mountain Standard Time)
Subject: Re: [Star45] muslin in place of fiberglass, vac bagging

Dave, I have not heard on using muslin in that manner, but I do know the glider guys use very light glass and then paint it with polyurethane instead of resin. On the food sealers, I just use the standard bags, cheaper the better. To get the air to move I use a release cloth and breather. You can buy the actual stuff or use paper towels as a breather and wax paper with holes in it as release cloth. I am not sure the food sealers are big enough to do a hull, but they work great for small parts.

fiberlass notes

From: racer577@citystar.com
Sender: Star45@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2006 16:36:47 -0700 (MST)
Subject: Re: [Star45] Re: foam cored hull



We were concerned with having something resembling a one design model with three possible hull materials. There were, at that time, modelers building other class hulls with the exterior being only model airplane shrink wrap plastics and the concern was "what if" the entire framing was covered with mono-coat or some shrink material. I recall this also was one of the reasons that accounts for the hull weight be set at 16oz. Adding foam inside as a foam core plus wood or fiberglass or a combination of wood and fiberglass might make the completed hull a tad heavy??
The foam is light and adds more stiffness than adding a enough glass to get the same stiffness. The CPM deck is a glass with foam layup and at 10 oz or so is lighter than a sheet of 1/16th ply which is not nearly as stiff.
I don't see any specs addressing specifically in the area where the keel bolts are attached, which spreads out the loads associated with this high stress area. How would foam without some sort of glassing or wood lamination spread the high stresses from the keel fin?
The foam gives the glass structure so it isnt a thin flat pc supporting the weight of the keel. With 2 layers of glass 1/4" apart the bottom is very stiff and the load is spread over a large area. Real boats use foam or end grain balsa to do the same thing. Glass is not as stiff as wood. Its stronger, but not stiffer. So when you add a light filler like balsa to give the glass a shape that is stiff, you get a light strong structure.
John

fiberglass notes

BODY {font-family="Arial Black"} TT {font-family="Courier New"} BLOCKQUOTE.CITE {padding-left:0.5em; margin-left:0; margin-right:0; margin-top:0; margin-bottom:0; border-left:"solid 2";} From: racer577@citystar.com
Sender: Star45@yahoogroups.com
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2006 08:16:42 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: Re: [Star45] FRP molded hulls and fiber-glassed hulls

Molded hulls can be done either way, with gel coat or without. Depends on the mold.

Priming depends on the paint system. Some of the rattle can paints do not need a primer.

There is mold release on a hull after molding. A hull needs to be washed and sanded before gluing anything to it or painting.

John

fiberlass notes

Sender: Star45@yahoogroups.com
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2006 09:33:54 -0400
Subject: [Star45] FRP molded hulls and fiber-glassed hulls

Are molded hulls gel-coated or are the outsides bare-resin?

Are fiberglass hulls primed then painted?
In the case of hulls pulled from a mold do they still have mold release on the surface?

fiberlass notes

Mitch, I have used the 3.2 oz satin weave on 7 boats now. The first was a single layer and now that hull is 4 or 5 years olds it is showing wear and tear. I went to using 2 layers to help with durability and to have more material for sanding. Another thing I like about the cloth is that is drapes very nicely and easily will cover the hull with one pc. On my 10R's I have used 2 yards folded in half to do the hull. On the star I was concerned that it would be too wide for a single yard. I ended up with more than enough material so I cut it on the diagonal. The glassing starts by laying the glass over the hull. Then I smooth it out so there are no wrinkles. This may take a couple of min. Then I repeat with the next layer. Once the glass is smooth, time for epoxy. I used the 209/105 west systems combination. I used about 10 pumps of material. I start applying resin to the middle of the bottom with a cheap paint brush. Then I work my way out to the edges of the bottom. Next I do the sides. You need to use lots of resin and dont pull too much or you will pucker the cloth. Once everything is wetted out I go back with a squigee and remove the excess resin. Dont get to carried away or the cloth will go dry again. If in doubt of how this should look practice on a spare block of wood first to get a feel for how the cloth looks as you take out resin. I did the glassing at about 8 pm and with the 105/209 the resin is still green at 7 am the next morning. When green the glass can be trimmed with a #11 blade in a hobby knife. Then wait another day or two until sanding for full cure. I dont like to do much sanding, instead I try and do most of my fairing by using a thick primer and sanding most of it off between coats. For a clear boat I use polyurethane for a top coat. John

fiberglass notes

Sender: Star45@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2006 16:13:37 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: Re: [Star45] plugs and moulds

For the hulls I have laid up we have never used gel coat, just pva then lay up the hull. You do need to wash and sand the hulls afterword to remove the pva or nothing will stick. For a male mold you have to wash in inside of the hull before gluing anything in.
I have a lot of experiance using silicone molds. used to work at a PUR molder who used silicone tools exclusively. They offer great detail reproduction and the ability to die lock the part with no ill effect. The down side is that the silicone wears out. We used to get 30 to 80 turns per silicone before making another one. The silicone is also compressable so if you are vac bagging it may change the hull size slightly.
John

fiberglass notes

Sender: Star45@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2006 09:48:06 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: Re: [Star45] Comments about keel bulbs, glue, etc.

I use a myweigh 300 scale and mix the epoxy on
the scale. I found for my true 5 min epoxy I had to get a 1-1 mix or it
would not cure correctly. The scale is about $22 and can handle up to
300g with .1g resolution. Also they make mixing pads that are a coated
paper to prevent bleed and the pad has a foam backing so it doesnt move on
the table. I was given a couple of pads and they are great for mixing
small amounts of epoxy, just put them on the scale, add hard and resin in
equal weights.

John

fiberglass notes

You can also use polyurethane varnish if you are going to use the light
glass instead of epoxy. Personally I have a hard time dealing with glass
that is lighter than 2 oz/yard. If you have a vacuum chamber you can vac
down the mixed epoxy to remove bubbles. The heat will thin the epoxy and
make it kick off faster.

John

fiberglass notes

From: racer577@citystar.com
Sender: Star45@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2006 08:06:22 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: Re: [Star45] Re: Glues and adhesives, wooden boats, fiberglass-wood

The pot life with the 105/209 is 40 min or so. I have used that
combination when doing vac bagging and it allowed plenty of time to wet
out the fabric on a 60" boat, then apply mastic, then the bagging
materials, then pull the air out. I have also done 72" long 10R's and had
no issues with the pot life. Now I am usually about 70 deg, so that slows
it down some too.
Now the 105/205 can be more in the 10 to 20 min range depending on temp.
Also how deep the container is that you mix the epoxy will influence the
cure time. Deeper is faster.

John

fiberglass notes

From: "John F. Howard"
Sender: Star45@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2006 08:18:55 -0500
Subject: RE: [Star45] Re: Glues and adhesives, wooden boats, fiberglass-wood

2. Heating epoxy – Heating the epoxy or surface will cause the epoxy to thin out a bit to help soak into the wood and joints. It will also shorten the pot life (working time). Strip Canoe/Kayak builders recommend applying the first coat of epoxy late in the day as the hull is cooling to help prevent air bubbles. Second or more coats are added to the first in the green stage or well sanded if applied later. Final finish on the canoes is varnish to protect the epoxy from UV rays. On my model airplane fuselages, I used a very slow (2 hour) resin, thinned, to apply the .5 oz cloth and did not heat it, came out nice.

4. Epoxy Cure Rates – Pick up a West Systems User Manual (or look at it online). West hardeners pot life times (at 72 degrees) are; 205 – 9-12 min, 206 – 20-25 min, 207 – 22-27 min, 209 – 40-50 min. Ambient temperature will affect these times, higher temp faster set up (shorter pot life). To extend the pot life a little, after mixing the resin in a cup, pour the resin into a flat container (pie pan). Keeping the resin in the cup as a thick mass will generate more heat and set up faster; the pie pan allows the heat to escape and extends your time. Thinning the epoxy will not extend your time, only allow it to flow and penetrate better.

fiberglass notes

From: Philgeren@aol.com
Sender: Star45@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2006 07:54:46 EDT
Subject: Re: [Star45] Re: Glues and adhesives, wooden boats, fiberglass-wood

MItch,
What kind of set-up (hardening) times are you achieving with West epoxies and thinned (with IPA) West epoxies?
I have not been successful trying to cover large areas with fiberglass cloth, because the epoxy, even the "slow" Flex Coat stuff sold for fishing rod construction, starts to harden before I can get the surface coated and the cloth smoothed out. I have made some awful messes.
Best,
Phil Geren

fiberglass notes

From: "Mitch Martin"
Sender: Star45@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tue, 01 Aug 2006 12:59:10 -0000
Subject: [Star45] Re: Glues and adhesives, wooden boats, fiberglass-wood

I have not tried to thin WEST with IPA. I have thinned regular epoxy
with IPA and it seemed to work OK. The only place I can think of
thinning the WEST is painting the interior of the hull for water
proofing.

Working with WEST is similar to polyester resin, but it is stronger,
doesn't smell bad, and hardeners can be selected for your
application. For example if I was mixing the epoxy for glassing a
hull that would eventially be painted I would select the extra-slow
hardener 209 which has a pot life of 45 minutes. That's much longer
than a polyester resin pot life. The down side is the cost, it's
pretty pricy stuff. Another trick is to mix in the graphite powder
and it gives the finish a carbon fiber look. Take a look at this
flash movie of a woodie US1M with graphite look deck. Thanks go to
Bill Jennings on the US1M site.

Instructions for downloading US1M progress flash movie.
In order to run this file you need Macromedias free Flash Player:
http://macromedia.com/shockwave/download/download.cgi?
P1_Prod_Version=ShockwaveFlash&promoid=BIOX

Go to http://briefcase.yahoo.com/us_jennings@sbcglobal.net
Click on the US 1M flash movie folder
Right click on Match Stick Progress, select Save Target As… and select
a location to save the file to on your hard drive.

To play the movie open the file, and press Ctrl+F
To quit the movie press Ctrl+Q

Enjoy

fiberglass notes

From: "Mitch Martin"
Sender: Star45@yahoogroups.com
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2006 16:22:23 -0000
Subject: [Star45] Re: Glues and adhesives, wooden boats, fiberglass-wood

I agree that WEST epoxy is the best for coating wood to make it
water tight and added strength. Gougeon Brothers have books out for
full scale boat building utilizing WEST epoxy that are excellent.
My personal preference is the 209 hardener and 207 for anything that
needs a clear coat. Use this for fiberglassing the hull too as the
polyester resins do not have as much strength.

fiberglass notes

From: "John F. Howard"
Sender: Star45@yahoogroups.com
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2006 14:03:24 -0500
Subject: RE: [Star45] Re: Glues and adhesives, wooden boats, fiberglass-wood

If you use epoxy resin such as West Systems (best, you can adjust the cure rate with the different hardeners) or one of the 30-minute or longer (5-15 minute never gets hard and remains rubbery) such as sold by Great Planes or Tower, stink will not be a problem. The polyester resin does STINK in a big way, it what you can smell in a new fiberglass hull. CA glues are ok for “tacking” stuff in place until the epoxy sets up, but watch the fumes. CA will fail if used in a wet location for long and also cause a problem with the wood accepting stain. Work with plenty of ventilation and or respirator and wear gloves with any of the above glues and resins, staining of the skin and sensitivity, either skin and or breathing can occur. Good Luck

fiberglass notes for S45 Yahoo Forum

Sender: Star45@yahoogroups.com
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2006 13:35:37 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: Re: [Star45] Re: Glues and adhesives, wooden boats,
fiberglass-wood

Epoxy is not all that smelly, but I still use a resperator while working
with it. I hope I dont generate a sensetivity to it in my lifetime.

the deck can be flat or curved. the plans show both designs. Luckily the
curved deck in only curved side to side, so it could be done flat them
bent over the hull.

John

> I am trying at all costs to avoid working with glass and poly-resin. I am
> considering some small molded pieces using epoxy and glass to see how bad
> the resin stinks up the place
>
> Epoxies and such can mess up wood so it won't take stain. The striped
> decks so very nice. Could one make the deck up as a unit off the model and
> then fit it to the hull. Having a urethane glue between planks would give
> the part a fair degree of flexibility. With the new Star 45 Plans are
> the decks flat or cambered? As I recall the hull bottom could be a tad
> tricky to plank. Fiberglass hulls are so easy to put together:) But wood
> rocks!

Fiberglassing notes

From: JFisher
To: Star45@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tue, 9 Sep 2008 12:03 pm
Subject: RE: [Star45] New Member Introduction

Welcome. In regards to the bunching at the corners, I use a light coat of 3m77 to hold things in place after cutting the folds so they will lay flat. I cut the bottom glass so that it doesn’t wrap the transom, then make a patch that covers the transom and about 1� of the bottom/sides. Same with the bow. I usually do two extra layers of glass at the bow and transom. The glass turns pretty much clear when wetted out so you don’t see the extra glass unless you look really hard. It is slightly thicker and slightly more green. I think have posted a few photos showing the reinforcements. The 3m77 seems to be key to=2 0getting the glass to stay put, but it can discolor the glass is used excessively. It will also move a little when wetted out since the epoxy seems to break down the 77’s adhesive properties.

For the fin/keel, I sand to shape, then wrap with glass (2 or 3 layers of 3 oz on the fin and 1 or 2 layers on the rudder depends how much you sand) that is held in place with 3m77 (light spray or it will show up in the glass.) I then liberally cover with resin, then vac bag with my handy food saver. Vac bagging can be done with commercial peel ply and breather or wax paper and paper towels. Just make sure to poke holes in the wax paper. Sand smooth again, then paint or if going clear I used system 3 clear coat epoxy to build the finish, then sanded again, then clear coat again, then sand, then varnish. I used the clear coat on the hull as well since it fills the minor lumps and bumps without as many coats to paint/sand as varnish.

If think you need practice, I would take a pc of scrap wood and cover it with glass. Cost is minimal and you will quickly learn how the cloth moves when wet. FWIW I like to go a littl e heavy on the resin with wetting out the cloth so it doesn’t want to pull when spreading the resin. I usually use disposable paint brushes to spread the resin and then squeegee it back out with epoxy squeegee’s that I get at the fiberglass store. You want the flexible ones, not the super stiff ones. The one problem with the paint brushes is that they lose bristles, so be ready to pick some off the model while the resin sets.

John

another star today # 842

From: "J Fisher"




I finished up another star today, 842. It has the 1" extra Fb ( free board) in the bow. It seems to sail well, it did not make as much difference as I expected. Still was able to bury the bow in a puff and the rail still gets put under when hard pressed.

Going to take it to TX this weekend and see how it compares. If it works well I will post the offsets and frames, if it doesn't work, will post the results.

You can also see the radio pot on the deck. I added this in expectation of sailing in salt water. It is a rubber maid screw top container, 4 for $3.50 at your local grocery store. Even has a flange so you can bolt it down.

Star45 : John Fisher - Dave Mainwaring Award

Star45 : Message: John Fisher - Dave Mainwaring Award:

"I have received a wooden plaque with a half model of a Star 45 and several brass plates on it from Robert Fisher. Here is what he wrote along with the plaque:

Deed of Gift
John Fisher - Dave Mainwaring Award

The purpose of this award is to recognize the efforts of John Fisher and Dave Mainwaring to utilize 21st Century computer technology to support and facilitate the scratch building for the Star 45 Class, and to regonoize the best builder-sailor at the Star 45 National Championship Regatta. Only people who scratch - built the Star 45 they sail in the National Championship Regatta may compete for this trophy. Any person who did not personally scratch - build the boat they sail is not eligible for this award. The trophy is to be awarded, until the next National Championship, to the eligible person who has the best finish in the Star 45 National Championship. This award shall not be retired.
This award is in addition to the Julie Ayers award!
Don Keeney
Star 45
Class Secretary"

Star45 Owner's around the world

Mystic Seaport: The Museum of America and the Sea™ : summer event

Mystic Seaport: The Museum of America and the Sea™ : summer event: "Renewal of championship model racing will occur at the 2008 Model Yacht Regatta on Mystic Seaport's waterfront August 21 - 24. It will feature radio-controlled (R/C) model classes as sanctioned by the American Model Yachting Association (AMYA) with the support of its U.S. Vintage Model Yacht Group (VMYG). A total of 60 R/C models and skippers will compete on race courses with marker buoys using highly-honed racing tactics. These models are based on well-known classic designs, such as Star, 12-Meter and J boats. The Seaport's R/C Laser fleet will be available for visitors to experience hands-on model yachting. More information on this sport is on the AMYA web site: www.ModelYacht.org

Notice of Race for EC-12 models - Thursday and Friday from 10 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.
Notice of Race for Wheeler models - Thursday and Friday from 10 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.
EC-12 and Wheeler models are scale versions of 1960s America's Cup and 1990s ocean racing yacht designs.

Notice of Race for J boat models - Saturday 9 a.m. to noon and Sunday noon to 3 p.m.
Notice of Race for Star 45 models - Saturday 1:30 p.m. to 4:30 p.m. and Sunday 8:30 a.m. to 11:30 a.m."

Star45 construction:winch and steering servo | Radio Tray

From: "J Fisher"
Sender: Star45@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2007 20:54:05 -0700 (Mountain Standard Time)

The radio tray is to hold the winch and steering servo. No provisions for water proofing. When sailing is fresh water I tape the receiver under the deck and everything else is open. The boats tend to be a little wet due to the low freeboard, but as long as I drain between races I have no issues. For salt water I am thinking of adding one of the radio pots from bantock. I would only put my receiver and batteries in that, everything else is open.

Short video about building wooden Star45

It takes a minute for video to load from external feed.

RE: [Star45] Fwd: [Sailing Models Breeze Chasers] New comment on RC Laser {from Tillerman}.

At Monday 9/10/2007 03:35 AM -0700, Ed Hilton posted:
>hi
>I found this site while looking for info on the star 45
>He does classic IOD boats as well http://www.angelfire.com/fl4/mft/

>Ed

Good site.
>Star, Etchells 22, and IOD models, half models and laser cut frames
>International Star Class models
>I built Star 3909 in 1957 and raced her on Lake Hopatcong, NJ and Long Island Sound. Over the years I have owned 3 other Stars and now offer Star Class laser cut frames for Star 45 Class and other size models of the Star. Star models are very easy to build due to their flat sides and small arc bottom.

Take a look at the number of models and lazer cut frames

He "now offer(s) Star Class laser cut frames for Star 45 Class"

Now If I can only get the comments approval to work on

http://sailingmodels.blogspot.com/

Dave Mainwaring

Star45 : Yahoo Group - online discussions

Star45 : Yahoo Group Star45 Messages

Wanna go fast? GET THAT TOPPING LIFT RIGHT

GET THAT TOPPING LIFT RIGHT (if you wanna go fast)!
By Phil Geren

Of all the go fast stuff I have learned from tuning experts over the past year, the most valuable, and the thing that has provided the most additional boat speed for my 13#-3.5oz Star 45 (the "Fat Lady") is how to get the Jib's topping lift set right. I am doing much better in my racing since learning this.

The curve of the leech of the Jibsail MUST resemble as closely as possible the curve of the leeward surface of the Mainsail when sighting from the foredeck. If the Jib's leech is flatter or fuller your boat will not attain its speed potential while beating and reaching.

The topping lift enables you to get the curves aligned. Tightening the topping lift makes the Jib's leech fuller, more curved. Loosening the topping lift makes the Jib's leech flatter. With a little practice you can get the curves to be identical.

Here's how:

Pull the Mainsail in to the beating position; Swivel the Jib boom with your finger (apply only lateral force, no upward or downward force on the Jib boom) so that when you sight from the foredeck and look up and down the curve of the windward surface of the leech of the Jibsail it is superimposed on the curve of the back (leeward) surface of the Mainsail.

Are the curves identical? If not, is the Jib's leech more curved?
If it is, loosen the topping lift.

If the Jib's leech is flatter, tighten the topping lift.

Make small adjustments. This is very sensitive, and you can get it right if you persevere.
Recheck the need for adjustment after every few heats of racing or if you change anything else.

On sailboats EVERYTHING is related to everything else, and you will need to readjust periodically to maintain your added speed.

Don't have a topping lift? INSTALL ONE NOW! You won't believe the improvement!

Tips on setting Spektrum up with an RMG Smart

From: "J Fisher"

Subject: Re: [Star45] Spektrum Radio question - Star 45

Ted,

I have used the same setup you are using for a while now. I have not had any power issues with the RMG since it seems to have a good voltage regulator. My brother has had issues in the CR914 using 4 cell packs. I use 5 cell packs and have recently started using 2 cell lipo's.

Depending on the age of your RMG you will need to add a pulser to make it work with the spektrum receiver. If you have a RMG 280 C or a recent 280D it isnt an issue, but there are some 280Ds that need the pulser, check the RMG site for the serial #'S effected. I have used the pulser with good results. You do need to make a harness so you can program the winch. Photo attached.

The harness is has a female to attach to the winch and then 2 male ends. One of the male ends has the + and - power and is plugged into an open channel or battery slot on the receiver. The other male end can have a switch in it or just inset and remove the plug as needed to interrupt the signal. This can be make out of an aileron extension available from LHS. If using a pulser, it should be placed on the signal line for programming.

John


-------Original Message-------

From: Ted
Date: 5/24/2007 11:32:23 AM
To: Star45@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Star45] Spektrum Radio question - Star 45


I just purchased a Spektrum DX6 radio for my Star 45. Does
anyone have any Tips on setting it up with an RMG Smart Winch and
using it with the Star 45? I purchased a larger capacity NiMH
battery for the transmitter to improve run time. I understand that
the radio / receiver may experience a power hit that may cause the
radio to reset -- resulting in no control for 5 or 6 seconds. Anyone
experience this problem? I purchased a Spektrum Voltage Protector to
solve the problem. Any comments would be appreciated.

Thanks
Ted Mahoney

Star45 : naca0009 rudder

Star45 : Message: Re: [Star45] Photo's of naca0009 rudder: "Re: [Star45] Photo's of naca0009 rudder

I am happy with how they turned out. I sent the production files to Stevens Monday, so you should be able to order a rudder if you need one. He doesn't have it posted yet, but if you call him he can cut them for you.
I built mine by clamping all the pcs together with the alignment pins in place (1/8 sq stock left over from stringers). Then CA'd it together with thin CA. I used my random orbital sander with 150 grit to shape it. Took about 15 min or so. With the different layers you can see if you are removing material evenly. Once sanded I sprayed the rudder with 3M 77, covered with 3 oz glass, one PC folding it over the leading edge so there is no seam on the leading edge. I then added resin and vac bagged in my handy food saver. The next day I pulled off the breather and peel ply, sanded smooth and varnished.

The glass is probably not needed since the core is made out of ply. I used the glass to ensure it is not coming apart and only adds another 10 min or so to do. With the vac bagging it is very smooth and uniform with only a little sanding required to remove the texture of the peel ply. I did buy a yard of breather and peel ply, but waxed paper with holes in it and paper towels can be substituted."

Star45 : naca0009 rudder on a Skiddo

Star45 : Message: Re: [Star45] Photo's of naca0009 rudder: "Re: [Star45] Photo's of naca0009 rudder

Yes, you could use the rudder on a skid-do. I am pretty sure that the
skid-do uses a 5/32 shaft, so use the parts cut for the 5/32 shaft. they
might need a slight bit of shimming, 1/32 or so due to the way the
thicknesses worked out.

I am not going to sell them, but I will provide the cutting files to
Stevens aero if you would like to order a set or if you have a local
cutter I can provide the files for cutting. There is a PDF version that
you can print out and cut your own in the yahoo groups file section as
well.

The size is based loosly on the current skid-do/CPM rudder, but squared
off to make construction easier.

John"

S45 Construction : The Perfect Cradle

Star45 : Message: New use for St.John's Lasercut Frames-Cradle Making: "John,
I needed a cradle for the hull of my woodie Star 45 under construction, to hold the hull while I fair the gunnels to the frames in preparation for installation of the deck and while I design and install the controls (keel is not on yet).
Well, the easiest way to make a perfect cradle is by using the holes (which are left in the John Fisher lasercut frame sheets after removal of the lasercut frames, to trace the exact shapes of the outsides of frames 2, 4, 6, 8, and 10 onto 3/8' thick plywood. Allow for the thickness of planking and carpeting by drawing a second trace for each frame so that the hole for the hull is 3/8' bigger everywhere than the frame. Then cut out each second trace as the inside of a frame for a cradle. Mount the cradle frames on a 2'X4' piece of particle board, using the spacing of the balsa template included in the frames kit, and using a try square to get them vertical, and making sure that they are all on the same longitudinal center and all parallel. Then hot glue 1' wide strips of carpeting to the insides of the cradle frames. Voila! A perfect hull cradle. I took some photos and will email them this weekend.
Best,
Phil Geren"



















Star45 : Message: The Perfect Cradle: "

Here are the hull cradle fotos I promised you.

Your shadow invention is so useful. The holes left in the plywood sheets after punching out the frames were used as templates to draw perfect frames for a cradle to hold the hull for completion of the construction (before keel installation).

Thanks so much!
Best regards,
Phil Geren"

Star 45 Sails, Colors, materials,

Apr 2007 Subject: [Star45] Sails - colors
--
From: "Larry Ludwig" mailing list Star45@yahoogroups.com

You can have colored sails, it doesn't mean that you have to compete with them. Even if you do, don't discount them all that much. You can make your own from ripstop and the colors are all available. The material is inexpensive enough that even if you do botch the first few attempts it's not going to set you back more than $10.00

Learning to make sails teachs you more about TRIMMING sails and the way they take a "set" than sailing a boat ever will.

If you set your mainsail luff as a bolt rope (and you should IMHO) then it takes only a few seconds to pop off your mast head or foot, slide out one sail and slide in the other. Then if your jib is setup as a hook attachment to a hole in the mast, you unhook from the deck, unhook from the mast and voila, you are ready to hook both ends of the 2nd sail and you are complete. You should be able to change the sails on your boat in 2 minutes if you are properly set up. Of course, using a 2nd mast and complete rig is even faster. If you setup so your turnbuckles remain on the deck, then they are ready to go regardless of which rig you chose, and you reduce the cost of a 2nd rig by $40 right there.

Don't discount ripstop sails too much. They may not be all the rage... but I promise you the skipper skill factor is WAY more important than the sail material. I have rip stop sails here that have lasted 20 years, if they are well cared for, they will last. Skippers familiar with the Vic class will remember a Regional Regatta being won with a stock ripstop mainsail last year ( I think it was)

Give it a shot, you won't be sorry you did. *and it DOES look very nice on your boat.
--
From: "J Fisher" Sender: Star45@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Star45] Sails - colors

I have seen people in the 914 fleet use colored markers to color sails. I think it was mostly to tell the boats apart, but there were some interesting designs. You could probably paint your sails as well to get color.
--
From: jfisher@wildblue.net I have made a lot of sail and could put together a step by step to make sails.

I use mylar which I buy from www.McMaster.com. They only carry clear, so I sand it to make it translucent. It colors well with markers so that would be one way to make colored sails. To make sails you can use the sail block based on the method provided on the star 45 yahoo groups by John Whitford or you can use the block from great basin, which is based on the Sweede Johnson sail block. I have used the sweede block with good results.
--
From: "Larry Ludwig" Sender: Star45@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Star45] Sails - colors

You can make panelled sails, but it is not required. You can get PLENTY of use out of a single panelled sail. They actually have some advantages in high winds because of the less draught. Also, but putting in the luff curve and using a bolt-rope main, you do have a sail with some draught to it, not just a flat sheet of cloth. The block method works fine, but also.. is not required. Basically you cut the bottom panel seam flat, and draw your airfoil MAC (mean aerodynamic chord) and cut it with a #9 X-acto or scissors. Use seamstress tape and overstitch. Do the same thing with the luff curve, and hem the foot and leech and you are about there. Oversew some corner panels, tack on some batten pockets and thread in a piece of weed-eater line up the hem of the luff and you are ready to put on your class markings and numbers. Grommets in the corners are installed either with a seamstress tool or they could be ordered from Don Ginther at GBMY if he is still shipping, he was in the process of suspending operations.

Where to find the material? Nylon ripstop is inexpensive... typically $6-$7 (x 38-50" long bolt) a yard at LONDON's Fabrics or HANCOCK Fabrics, sometimes you will find it at HOBBY LOBBY retail stores, but if you check your local fabric store you will most likely come up with some in various colors. Also using contrasting thread colors can make the sail more attractive. Start with a single panel sail and go through all the steps. When you are ready to start making paneled sails... don't be afraid to make them out of paper first. Typical brown paper can be cut and taped together and makes a perfect mock up of the sail for pennies.
--
From: "Al Stein" Sender: Star45@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Star45] Re: Sails - colors

I think I got mine from Potomac Sailmakers in Alexandria, Virginia... I bought yellow and orange, but they had a bunch of different colors in spinnaker cloth, and very light weight and airtight it is.

It's fairly stiff, too, for as light as it is -- something well under an ounce per yard. Price about the same as Larry experienced... less than $10 a running yard from a BIG WIDE bolt (can't remenber exact width, but it was much wider than normal fabric store goods.
--
From: "John & Kelly" Sender: Star45@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Star45] Sails - colors

I have built US One Meter sails from spinnaker cloth purchased from Sailrite.

I used .5 oz which is only available in red, white, and blue, but .75 oz is available in a multitude of colors.

The part I like best about these materials is you can buy a role of C3 spinnaker tape (pricey at $25.00) and build a set of sails without sewing a stitch.

They actually use C3 to tape together the body seams of full scale spinnakers so I'm pretty sure it can take just about anything a model can throw at it.

I've built two sets of sails and only used about 10% of my role of tape so that $25.00 will go a long way.

At about $12.00 a yard, spinnaker cloth is twice the cost of fabric store ripstop, but spinnaker cloth is coated with resin that makes it far more stable and eliminates all porosity (wind can blow right through ripstop). I also haven't tried using C3 on plain ripstop, so I can't say how the bond will hold up.

For cutting fabric like this I'd use a hot knife. I bought a $4.00 40watt soldering iron at the local mega-mart, removed the tip, hammered it flat, and put it back in. Cutting works best over a smooth heat resistant surface. I use my glass topped kitchen table (when my wife's not home).
--

[Star45] Update on planking bottom with edge glueing.

[Star45] Update on planking bottom with edge glueing.

John Fisher is ready { 4/19/2007 } to glass his latest boat and is sharing how he planked it. His dad built a ply sided, cedar planked star using titebond II and it came out pretty light and stiff. With this information I started to build another hull using the same materials. He felt that edge gluing the planks added a lot of the strength to his boat. John didn't want to glue in extra wood to hold the pins to keep the planks in place for the glue to dry, so I combined two methods of planking. John liked the quickness of planking with CA and kicker, but it lacked stiffness when sanding the bottom before glassing. So he decided to edge glue the planks and then tack them in place to the frames with CA.

In this photo you can see where John put drops of CA on the planks. The wood is slightly darker.


It worked well. John has an edge glued bottom and he was able to plank it in one evening. To do this John first spray the frames with kicker, then apply titebond III to the edge of the planks. He then would hold the plank in place, tight against the previous plank, and apply a drop of CA to each frame to hold it in place. It did not matter where John started, bow, stern, or middle, but do make sure the CA has set up before moving to the next frame. Once the whole plank was in place he came back and wiped off the extra titebond. To fair the bottom to the sides he used a $10, 6" plane from home depot set at .010" depth of cut. It quickly removed the cedar and a little sanding finished the job.

John had one plank that was too thin that he had to remove, it was harder than expected. He had the use quite a bit of force to break the glue joint at each frame, so he is confident that this method is strong. John will also use this for balsa planked bottoms.

In photo # 10 you can see the stern still needs to be trimmed and sanded. John will probably use a saw to trim in close and then sand to fair it.

Star 45 DECK John Fisher 4/19/2007

4/19/2007 John Fisher just finished the deck rigging last night on his latest boat. The boat is set up pretty simple. Open loop with elastic. Winch is below deck, but the same rigging setup can be used with an on deck winch, just substitute a turning block for the through deck block.

The sheets go forward to a block on a bridle for the main sheet. The jib sheet and elastic go through a double block attached to the chain plate to keep things from rubbing on the mast, then through an adjustable double block forward. The jib sheet then goes back to a deck mounted block. The elastic is then hooked to a loop on deck. John put a hook in the elastic so he can release tension when in storage.

Chain plates and mast step are laid out per Scott Rowlands tuning guide.





In tweaker photo bellow you can see the tweaker servo and winch mount.

MainZone International, ship models, R/C, radio control, Sailing Models, wooden boats, model boat, Star45, Star 45

MainZone International, ship models, R/C, radio control, Sailing Models, wooden boats, model boat, Star45, Star 45: "How to Build a
Wooden Sailing Model Boat

'Building a model made simple.'

See how to build to Build a radio controlled Wooden Sailing Model Boat. Enjoy the pleasure of wooden boat building. Based on the International Star Boat this semi-scale Star45 can be scratch built by novice or seasoned skipper. Easily radio controlled and large enough to see out on the water this is a classic model model built by hobbyists for over thirty years.

Here are downloadable files for Star 45 shadows - frames. You can use your browser to download the files. Click on link or go to www.mainzone.com/star45frames/ select the files you want and they will download to your machine"

Jib Tweaker, adjusts lenght of jib sheet VS Jib Twitcher

Jib tweaker with swing arm sail control unit:

Adding a servo to the end of the jib sheet allows the jib to be "tweaked" by changing the effective length of the sheet while under sail. The challenge is to set the servo to mid point when setting the model up prior to sailing.

Tweaker with drum type sail control unit.


A jib twicher is a rig that pulls the jib boom to port or to starboard when sailing down wind.

These to devices are often confused with each other :)

Step by step model building instructions available

If you want to read step by step instructions please visit: http://woodstar45.blogspot.com/
Model Sail Boat Building, How To Build A Wooden Star45 R/C Sailing Model.

This radio controlled sailing model is based on the International Star Boat.

This semi-scale wooden sailing model can be scratch built by novice or seasoned skipper.

Plans are available from the AMYA, Downloadable drawings to make laser cut bulkheads are available.

The blog your are currenty reading is journal. Members and contributors post content in chronological order. This means you must search through the blog's content to find information.

I sorted all the building posts out into the workflow for making a model and posted the steps on Model Sail Boat Building, How To Build A Wooden Star45 R/C Sailing Model

Dave Mainwaring

S45 Construction - completed hull

From: "Daniel Denson"
To: "Dave Mainwaring"
Subject: star45 photos
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2007 20:01:39 -0600

S45 Construction - what happens when you use too much polyurethane glue

Picture #4 shows what happens when you use too much polyurethane glue. The squeezeout is unsightly. I used Gorilla Glue to attach the sides because it is flexible and it only needs to be spread on one side of the joint. It is much lighter than epoxy.

I used CA glue for the planking. First, kicker was sprayed on the plank. Then the plank was placed on the boat starting at one end. Thin CA was dribbled along the joint, and the plank was pressed against the next one. The pressing seemed to kick off the glue, which gave off smoke as it bonded. I continued this from back to front, one frame at a time, until the whole plank was attached.

Also shown is the hardwood chainplate support. I doubled it for strength. If I was thinking, I would have doubled on top, so it would help support the deck.

S45 Construction - fore and aft views of the hull beside the building board.

From: "Daniel Denson"
To: "Dave Mainwaring"
Subject: star45 photos
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2007 20:01:39 -0600

Hi, Dave
Here are some pictures I took yesterday of my glassed hull plus some commentary:

Pictures #1 & #2 are fore and aft views of the hull beside the building board. I used hardwood plywood with MDF cleats biscuit joined at the edges to keep it flat. Afterward, the whole thing was run over a jointer to make it perfectly flat.

Unfortunately, I wasn't quite as careful gluing on the balsa spacing strips. Although a straightedge was used, the balsa bent away from the straightedge a fraction around form #8. This could have been avoided if the spacing strips were plywood (or I was not a klutz).

Another goof was waiting too long to put on the stringers. After 4 days on the board in Houston humidity, the forms all warped noticeably. Even the transom was crooked. I actually had to use the stringers to align the frames! Don't do this.

S45 Construction -- the stern

From: "Daniel Denson"
To: "Dave Mainwaring"
Subject: star45 photos
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2007 20:01:39 -0600

Star 45 Hull, -- BOW

From: "Daniel Denson"
To: "Dave Mainwaring"
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2007 20:01:39 -0600

Keel Tubes installation -- S45 cedar hull -- John Fisher

Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2007 17:18:41 -0700 (Mountain Standard Time)
From: "J Fisher"
To: "Dave mainwaring"
Subject: Photo's of keel tube install on cedar hull


Dave, I am attaching 4 photo's showing the radio tray , keel tubes glued in , how I made the keel tubes , and the keel tubes installed .

I used brass tubes on this hull and found that they were very easy to align due to the snug fit in the drilled holes. Since this fin had the standard bolts on it I put a shoulder on the inside by soldering together a couple of different sized tubes. Photo shows one already soldered and the other before soldering. I will then take an aluminum rod and thread the end to hold the keel.

I then glued the tubes in the hull using JB weld since it has very good strength for bonding metal. That is the silver colored epoxy. Time will tell if it was a good choice.

The radio tray was simply two 1/8" X 3/8" spruce strips glued in. I also added a vertical reinforcing PC in the middle. All the joints were strengthened with a small PC of fiberglass that was held in place by 3M77 while gluing. I add the glass to make sure the joints never come apart. On one boat I had to cut the radio tray out when I moved it since the glassed glue joint was so strong.

This boat will have a deck mounted winch like the first 3 that I built.

John

keel tubes and rudder tube in CPM hull. -- John Fisher

From: "J Fisher"
To: "Dave mainwaring"
Subject: Photo's of glass star build

Dave, here are two photo's of how I aligned the keel tubes and rudder tube in my CPM hull.

Racy SUPER MODELS - radio controlled model yacht racing Boat/US Magazine

Racy SUPER MODELS - radio controlled model yacht racing Boat/US Magazine:

"Racy SUPER MODELS - radio controlled model yacht racing
Boat/US Magazine, May, 2000 by Elaine Dickinson

With the pop of the starting gun, all hands flew into action. Rudders strained to tack sharply and get on the favored side of the racing course; sails were trimmed tight as a drum to eke every last iota of speed out of the wind; waves slammed into bows and washed clear over the decks. And as the fleet raced toward the first turning mark, the atmosphere intensified and nervous fingers grabbed the toggle switches for additional maneuvering.

Toggle switches?

Model yacht racing, or 'RC' racing (for 'radio controlled') is what gets many boaters through the winter. It keeps the adrenaline flowing from the thrill of competition, albeit on a small scale. But, like boating, it offers camaraderie and fun that's easily accessible to anyone with working fingers and enough charged up AA batteries for an afternoon of sailing.

Thinking small is easier on the bank account as well. The outlay for a ready-to-sail RC boat is usually in the hundreds of dollars, not thousands. Access to the water is as simple to find as a quiet pond at a local park. Some cities have even built special yacht racing ponds, such as San Diego, because it's such an eye-catching attraction.
Advertisement

'Model racing is less of a commitment in terms of time as well as money,' said Dick Rutledge, a BoatU.S. member from Houston who is also the national vice president of the American Model Yacht Association (AMYA), the all-volunteer organization which sanctions classes of RC boats and all official races. 'I can have my model loaded and on the water in 20 minutes.'

Rutledge and his wife Nancy are avid racers on Lake Conroe in Texas and compete in their full-sized 'people boat,' a Ranger 22. One day at the dock, one of their Ranger class friends was playing with a model yacht and handed the control box to Rutledge. 'I was hooked,' he said, and now travels throughout the U.S. to compete in the Star 45 and 36/600 class races. His wife is a top competitor as well. The Rutledges also belong to the Houston Model Yacht Club, one of 120 in the U.S. that organize local races."

The Big Day!! Star 45 Launch

From: John Whiteford


G'day ,
Great morning yesterday when we launched Oribi tho for the first time for some time the weather was overcast and the wind fickle. However all went well and she looked pretty good and some good comments from the few members there. Had a couple of nice gusts which pushed her along and she went well, so looking forward to next time. Took heaps of photos and attach the best here. Must qualify the CHRISTENING!! The phial in Julia's hand contains red wine which she rubbed over the bow with her finger....not allowed to take alcohol into this park!! So I drank the rest last night!!!!! Also please note the cap in PROUD OWNERS. I got quite a few comments re this!!! and stirred them up!!! I was wondering if any of these should be placed on the Star45 website and where. If you think so would you be kind enough to copy them there for me please Don. Also thanks for the advice on the bow bumper and will sort something out along that idea.
Kind regards,
John

S45 Construction : rigging b.o.m. from John Fisher

To:Star45@yahoogroups.com
From: 'J Fisher'jfisher@wildblue.net
Sender: Star45@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2007 21:02:38 -0700 (Mountain Standard Time)
Subject: Re: [Star45] Deck rigging and such

Here is the list on the star 45 yahoo groups for rigging. I am using the following for my next couple of builds:
GBMY item #, description, qty, purpose
019, 3/8' alloy tube, 1, Jib boom
034, Hales single block, 2, main and jib sheets
146, tapered drain plug, 1, plug in transom
182, Z sheet hook, 2, sheet ends/boom attachment
202, large bowsie, 1, back stay/forestay with 80 lb Dacron, order small ones if using spektra
206, O-rings, 1, hold the Z hooks to the boom.
254, double block, 2, main sheet and jib sheet adjuster
255, sheet exit, 1, turning block for main sheet from under deck to above deck.
269, eye plate, 1, mounting for jib block.
272, 180 deg sheet lead, 1, turn around for jib tweaker
280, sheet hook, 1, hooks for backstay and fore stay.
282, tang, 1, attach lowers to mast.
907, rigging screw, 4 hooks, 2 packs, upper and lowers to the deck.

I also build my own chain plates, so I don't order them from GBMY. Don does carry them if you need them. I also like the Ludwig mast better than the bantock mast, so I ordered 8 foot masts cut to 69' from Larry Ludwig, the other 28' or so is the main boom. Last time I made all my own boom vang, mast fitting. This time I ordered them from Larry. You can use the bantock mast, boom, and fittings from GBMY as well. They are good stuff and I have them on my IOM.

The back stay crane is made from 1/16 (.063') aluminum that I bought at the local hobby shop.

John"

S45 Construction : Re: Woodie construction tip

"To: Star45@yahoogroups.com
From: 'Mitch Martin'
Sender: Star45@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wed, 03 Jan 2007 00:01:50 -0000
Subject: [Star45] Re: Woodie construction tip

Thanks for the encouragement! To answer your questions: I CAed the
1/32' bass wood to the frames and stringers. When I epoxy the
inside it will make the permanent bond. The layers of veneer are
cold molded with system 3 epoxy. I will have two layers on the
bottom and one on the sides, then glass with epoxy and .6 oz glass
cloth. Then one more layer of veneer. I do intend to laser some
patterns into the veneer. Then I'll finish with more clear epoxy
(probably west) and then varnish. Like I said, it's not going to be
light, but will look like a jewelery box when done.

--- In Star45@yahoogroups.com, Drake Dunivan
wrote:
>
> Thanks for that tip, its always nice to learn from
> someone elses mistakes :)
>
> What are you using for the adhesive? CA? Tightbond
> III?
>
> Hopefully everything else goes smoothly.
> drake
>
>
> --- Mitch Martin wrote:
>
> > I just made a mistake on my woodie and wanted to
> > pass along the tip.
> > You must install the side planks before installing
> > the botton planks.
> >
> > I tried to do the bottom first and it bent the thin
> > chine rails up and
> > now I have a wavy chine. It can be sanded out a
> > little but it's not
> > as good as I would have liked. Also, I have started
> > veneering the
> > hull with .035' maple and mohagany veneers. Should
> > be nice looking
> > when done.
> >
> > Best, Mitch
> >"

The Latest from Rochedale ,Queensland, Aust

Well the boat is on its way and the mast has been stepped, now to finalise the sails etc

S45 Construction | John Fisher - keel tubes

Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2006 18:22:14 -0700 (Mountain Standard Time)
From: "John Fisher"
To: "Dave mainwaring"
Subject: Star 45 keel tubes


Here is a photo sequence showing how I made my keel tubes. I am using a keel from CPM (David Ramos) with longer keel bolts so they will go through the deck when finished. I coated the brass rod with carnuba was as a mold release.

http://woodstar45.blogspot.com/2006/10/s45-construction-john-fisher-keel.html

John

Radio install on star # 3 | John Fisher

http://woodstar45.blogspot.com/2006/10/s45-model-boat-construction-sail.html

Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2006 18:09:14 -0700 (Mountain Standard Time)
From: "John Fisher"
To: "Dave Mainwaring" ,
Subject: Radio install on star # 3


Here are a couple of photo's of my latest star. I have just finished installing the radio tray for an under deck winch, jib tweaker, and rudder servo. I also included a photo of the sheet through deck mount. I also show the jib tweaker turn around. The part is a 180 deg sheet lead from great basin.

The radio tray is 1/16 ply backed up with 1/8 X 3/8 spruce or basswood. Note the glassing at the ends. This adds a lot of strength to the joint and I highly recommend adding it. I have 1" wide glass tape that I cut in half, then sprayed with 3M77 so it will stay in place for gluing. Then a dab of your favorite epoxy and you are done.

Duddy's universal building jig,: materials used

From: "MICHAEL DUDDY"
M. Duddy's universal building jig
Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2006 08:28:46 -0500


The material used in the jig is 1"x1"x1/16" aluminum square tube( very ridged and no twist).
The ends are 1 1/2" angle bolted in two places on the ends as you can see in the pictures. I checked the ends with levels and the jig is dead straight.

The angle pieces with the screws in them are 3/4"x 1/16" x 6" long. You mount your frames to these with a square on the centerline of your frame inline with the center of the attachment piece.

Next you use a square to square these on the jig rails, and line up with the string. Now you are rite on brother.:) The dimensions of this jig are ; 60" long x 6" wide because they only had 60" pieces in the rack , and I didn't know what I might be building in the future. You can make it any size you want.

The end plates I made from 1/4"(stuff laying around), and milled slots in them so I could slide the jig to one side or the other for balance. If you have any questions or if I can help you in any way , get in touch with me.

Mike

S45 Construction Michael Duddy's Universal Building Jig

From: "MICHAEL DUDDY"
Subject: universal building jig
Date: Mon, 18 Dec 2006

Attached is the pictures of the jig. It isn't hard to build , and can be used on most any boat model (maybe even wings too). It is all adjustable , and it can be tilted on either side to plank the sides of the hull you are working on. Once the hull is done it can be removed very easy. The materials are available at places like Home Depot,or Lowes , and I know of some aluminum suppliers that sell in small quantities. I could draw up some plans if anyone is interested. I have to make a stem and transom angle holder for it.












Join the AMYA Star45 Class !

Tank Notes on International Star Boats (1/3 size models)

Tank Notes on Star Boats: "ROUND chines add another complication to getting speed from a hull. This bad feature is an extension of the range in which burble will appear. In the wake of any transom-sterned boat, a severe agitation of the water may be noticed, an indication that a breakdown is occurring in the flow of water under the boat. When water is released from the transom properly, the burble that means an increase in resistance is not present. However, it is possible to run without burble only above and below definite speeds, the range depending on the lines of the boat. But, also, the shape of the chine has some effect. With a square-chined Star, it is safe to say that the burble will appear at about 5 knots and run clear aft at about 6 1/2 knots (when the boat is upright and on the designed trim). Increasing the bilge radius to 3 inches, on a Star, increases the burble range by dropping the lower limit to 4 1/2 knots and by raising the upper limit to 7 1/2 knots. Also, a model with round chines, when running heeled, begins to climb out of the water forward as the speed increases, the round chine acting as a flat surface on which the model tries to plane. To complete the analysis, it is necessary to go back to sharp-chined heeled models, in which the burble range is from 4 1/2 to 6 1/2 knots.

With the sharp-chined models, there was no indication that the bow tried to rise, a further proof that the sharp entrance angles are imperative. The easiest way to decrease the burble range is to trim the boat by the head and, conversely, the handicap of a trim by the stern is that it will cause the water to break away from the transom at speeds lower than normal. Under all conditions except that of a rounded chine, the burble range increases by dropping the lower limit; the upper limit is quite constant, being 6 1/2 knots. Interestingly, that is approximately the speed at which some styles of Star hulls show the first signs of planing.

In summary, it can be said that many Star boat owners might have had a faster boat than the standard Star because:
1. The fore and aft contour of the boat had been flattened and a large decrease in resistance accrued.
2. The boat was sailed down by the head, at least while running, which would give a 12 per cent decrease in the power required to drive her.
3. Square chines might have been used, which mean a decrease in resistance.

Although this work was done directly on Stars, the information is also applicable to other types of square-chined boats. But it must always be remembered that, even though a skipper have all the information in the world and his boat has an enviable heritage from designer and builder, the combination must sail hard to be a winner."


Complete article on www.starclass.org/

Star 45 Class | Rod Carr's "SPOT" Star #1

The modern day Star 45 Class got started back "when" Rod Carr got the AMYA launched and introduced the modeling world to his Star #1

7.0 KEELS AND BALLAST BULBS: class specs.

Class specifications as of 2006:

7.0 KEELS AND BALLAST BULBS:

7.1 Keel will be of the style known as drop, and will be of the FIN and BULB type.

7.2 Keel fins may be solid or hollow and constructed of reinforced plastic, plastic laminates, fiberglass, wood or metal. (Note: Strength and integrity of the keel fins must be maintained whether built solid or hollow.) Keel fin shape is not specified but must follow the general shapes outlined on the reference drawing. However, keels will not be less than 6 inches nor more than 8 inches long (Fore and Aft) at the keel/hull junction, nor less than 4 inches nor more than 6 inches long (Fore and
Aft) at the keel/ballast bulb junction.

7.3 Keels, keel fins and ballast bulbs may be removable, however, they may not be changed, interchanged, substituted or otherwise manipulated once any heat or series of heats in which scores will be compiled, has started. Mechanically movable keels or ballast bulbs are specifically prohibited from use in Star 45 Class Yachts.

7.4 Ballast bulbs may be constructed of any material not prohibited by the AMYA. The actual shape is left to the builder's discretion, but will not exceed 9.75 (9 3/4) inches from the front of the keel bulb to the rearmost point of the keel or bulb.

7.5 Total drop (length) of the keel fin/ballast bulb combination will not exceed 11.5 (11 1/2) inches when measured from the keel/hull junction, before any fillers or streamlining is added.

7.6 Ballast may be made from any readily available material, such as poured lead, lead shot, etc. (Note: When using material such as lead shot, the mass must be solidified through the use of a bonding agent such as fiberglass or epoxy resin, plaster of paris, poured over and through in order to create a solid mass.)

7.7 Race directors may elect to use a template based on the construction plans to determine the keel length (depth).

7.8 Keel depth shall be measured from the center of the keel fin at the hull to the bottom of the ballast bulb. This measurement is from the edge of the bottom of the hull as it meets the side of the keel and should be determined during construction and before any fillet or fairing is added.

7.9 The Star 45 Class specifically excludes radio equipment, sail controls and batteries (power cells) from being considered ballast. This specification defines ballast as anything carried aboard the model for the main purpose of changing the weight distribution of the model and/or weight of the model. Ballast shall be fixed in place by gluing, fiberglassing, or bolting (bolts and screws).

7.9.1 Ballast may not be removed or relocated during any one regatta. The use of Velcro or similar quick release fasteners is prohibited as methods of mounting ballast.

STAR 45 CLASS TECHNICAL COMMITTEE Nov. 2006- Dec. 2007

Phil Geren Sat, 25 Nov 2006 20:57:08 EST

STAR 45 CLASS

TECHNICAL COMMITTEE

November 2006 To December 2007

Table of Contents

Origin of this Committee. 3

Charter 3

Membership. 3

Processes. 4

Action Items, prioritized. 5

Origin of this Committee

Don Keeney, Class Secretary of the Star 45 Class of model yachts sanctioned by the American Model Yachting Association, announced at the National Championship Regatta held in October of 2006 that he plans to assist the Membership of the Class in achieving a clear, unambiguous, and uniform interpretation of the Rules. He also stated a goal to enhance the growth of participation in the Class.

To these ends Don formed the Star 45 Class Technical Committee of November 2006 through December 2007. The objectives, members, working processes, an an initial list of prioritized action items are set forth below.

Charter

The Technical Committee shall:

µ Ensure that the Star 45 Class Rules are:

o Capable of being clearly understood by all Class members without ambiguity;

o Subject to only one interpretation;

o Adequate to preserve the one-design principle of the Class, while allowing room for improvement in sailing performance

By:

o Formulating and publishing Guidelines for Rule Interpretation and Application (“GRI”);

o Submitting to the Class Secretary proposed Rule Amendments and New Rules;

µ Enhance growth in Class Membership by:

o Discovering and publishing corrections and clarifications to errors and ambiguities in the approved Star 45 reference and construction plans;

o Discovering and publishing Guidelines For Building And Tuning (“GBT”) Star 45 Model Yachts in order to assist a builder in achieving a competitive racing boat, at minimum cost, complying with the Rules, regardless whether building from scratch or from kit materials.

Membership

The Technical Committee shall comprise eight participants: the Class Secretary, Committee Chairman, and six Members. The Committee Chairman and the Members shall have voting rights.

The following people shall be directly involved in the business of the Technical Committee:

Class Secretary: shall participate in all discussions; shall take the final decision on all issues regarding the Rules after receiving the recommendation of the Committee. shall have no vote in Committee voting processes; shall, subject to his sole discretion, publish Guidelines for Rule Interpretation and Application received from the Technical Committee; shall, subject to his sole discretion, submit to the Class Membership for approval Rule Amendments and New Rules received from the Technical Committee;

Committee Chairman: shall recruit to fill vacancies on the Committee; shall chair discussions among Committee Members and administer voting processes; shall have voting rights; shall prepare the final wording of GRIs and GBTs based upon the consensus of the Committee; shall publish GBTs;

Committee Members: shall bring issues to the Committee for action; shall discuss and reach consensus, through simple majority vote on all issues; shall formulate Guidelines for Rule Interpretation and Application and submit these to the Committee Chairman for preparation of a final document; shall formulate, prepare, achieve consensus upon and submit to the Committee Chairman Guidelines For Building And Tuning Star 45 Model Yachts.

Present Committee Membership:

Class Secretary: Don Keeney, 1keyknee@281.com

Committee Chairman: Phil Geren, philgeren@aol.com

John Fisher, racer577@citystar.com

Dave Mainwaring, mainwaring@rcn.com

David Ramos, david@rcyachts.com

Peter Latournes, platournes@aol.com

Mel Holman, foxnlox@buckeye-express.com

Region 3 Candidate - being recruited

Processes

µ Discussion shall take place through postings of Email messages to:

star45technicalcommittee@mainzone.com

or messages posted while visiting this website:

http://mainzone.com/cgi/lyris.pl?enjter=star45technicalcommittee .

Posted messages are read at: http://mainzone.com/cgi/lyris.pl?enjter=star45technicalcommittee .

Please note that photos and attachments cannot be sent to the above.

Photos and attachments can be sent to: http://star-45.blogspot.com/ , where building information is being archived.

µ Consensus shall be by simple majority vote;

µ The quorum shall be the Committee Chairman plus 4 or 6 Members;

µ Guidelines for Rule Interpretation and Application shall be published by the Class Secretary as he sees fit;

µ Guidelines For Building And Tuning Star 45 Model Yachts shall be published at Star 45@yahoogroups.com , at star45houston.com , and at http://star-45.blogspot.com/ .

µ Preliminary performance targets for the Committee are to:

§ issue this Technical Committee organizational document for voting by the Committee on 26 November 2006;

§ issue one GRI per month;

§ issue the first GBT within three months.

Action Items, prioritized

1. Guidelines for Rule Interpretation and Application:

a. overhang of backstay chainplate, strut, boomkin or other device – how to measure

b. “hull” definition, wood, fiberglass

c. 1/4” or 3/8” bow bumper overhang

d. rudder profile and dimension limitations

e. jib numbering

f. obtain reference and constructing drawings additionally from Class Secretary (not just Ship’s Store)

g. fiberglass = fiber reinforced plastic, such as glass or other fiber cloth impregnated with hardened epoxy or polyester resin

h. Rule 1.4: rule to be waived if unable to be reasonably applied, such as, for example, if the deck or keel is attached, if verification by another Class member is inconvenient (requiring mailing the model, for example). Alternatively, Rule 1.4 to be deleted.

i. Hierarchy between Rules and Drawings

2. Guidelines For Building And Tuning Star 45 Model Yachts

a. Make available the best of the versions of the laser-cut frame files with instructions, online

b. Discuss if http://star-45.blogspot.com/ organization is the optimum for guiding beginners

c. Keel and bulb locations

d. Wings on rudders and bulbs

e. Glue recommendations

f. New building materials

g. New sources for woods, other materials

h. Jib tweakers

i. Jib twitchers

j. Drawings, correctd on CD

k. Camber recommendations for keels and rudders

l. Backstay tension calibrated for mast bend

m. Mast bend recommendations vs wind speed vs luff curve

n. Sheeting angles vs windspeed

o. Mast position vs wind speed

Building in Rochedale Queensland, Australia

Now ready for painting........ next job to finish off the plug

John

Curved mast -- tuning a mainsail

From: Philgeren@aol.com
Sender: Star45@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2006 06:58:53 EST
Subject: Re: [Star45] Curved mast -- advantage ??


Curving a mast so that it bends convex forward (concave aft) moves the luff edge of the sail forward and reduces the camber of the sail in the section where the mast is bent (if bent half way up the mast, the camber in the up/down center of the luff of the sail is reduced). In a blow, this reduces power, reduces leeway force, reduces weather helm, allows the boat to increase its speed.

Generally, the minimum position of mast bend is considered to be a curve equal to the luff curve designed into the luff edge of the mainsail. For very light air and for heavy air, maximum mast bend is used for maximum speed. For very light air, less camber makes it easier for air to stay attached to the leeward surface of the mainsail as the air passes aft. For medium air and for waves, where maximum power equates to maximum speed, minimum mast bend is used to get maximum designed camber.


By use of all the tuning controls on a mainsail, one can obtain a certain amount of control over the distribution of camber over the length of the mast, and there will be an optimum camber distribution for any particular sail and set of wind conditions. Pretty complicated to get it perfect, however outstanding sailors like Stuart Walker are on record as saying it is of paramount importance to use this against competitors who are using it. Otherwise, in a one-design competition they win.
My two cents.

A great place to learn about sail trim.

From: "Don Keeney" <1keyknee@281.com>
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2006 15:39:26 -0600
Subject: [Star45] Sail Trim

A great place to learn about sail trim.
http://www.sailingusa.info/sail_trim.htm

Don Keeney
Star 45 Class Secretary

--

Outstanding recommendation. Wonderful site. full of photographs and all sorts of instructional materials. Pictures of tells and how to read them:)
--

Also a must place to visit and test your sailing skills:

National Geographics Interactive Sailing:

Master rudder and sail to get your boat going as fast as possible no matter what direction you're sailing in-or which way the wind's blowing.
Controls available:

Sail Adjuster: Use the left sliding controller to rotate the sail in relation to shifting wind (shown as arrows). When you cross the path of the wind, your sail will swing to the opposite side.

Rudder Adjuster: Using the right sliding controller, steer to port (left) or starboard (right).


Uncle Dave

Star 45 Construction ply sides and a cedar strip planked bottom

From: "John Fisher"

Here is my dad putting the sides on his boat. This method could be done with balsa as well if someone has an issue with CA. The clips he uses can be purchased at any office supply store.

His boat is going to have ply sides and a cedar strip planked bottom. I made him a set of frames with 1/16 cut on the sides and 1/8 cut on the bottom for this application.

Using 1/16 inch plywood for sides

I use Titebond glue instead of CA. I first clamp a 4" by 48"
piece of the plywood against the framework on the building board. I then trace around the profile of the side to outline the approximate size and shape of the plank. Using a knife, I cut around the outline to remove excess plywood leaving about a half inch extra. This should be sufficient to allow the clamps to grab the stringers along the rail and the chine. I then apply Titebond on the stringers and clamp the plywood
in place starting in the middle and working to the ends. I used about 40 clamps to ensure a tight seal (2679).

I trim the plywood back to about a 1/16 of an inch above the balsa stringer using a Stanley modeling plane (2681). These cost about $10 at Ace Hardware or any home warehouse. This takes about 5 minutes and then I use sandpaper to finish the trimming.

Star 45 Construction splicing wood to get longer pieces

John Fisher writes:
Since 48 inch balsa is hard to find, I used 1½ pieces of 36 inch balsa that I joined using a 45 degree scarf. I cut a small (about 1 inch long) piece of the balsa I'm joining as a support for the joint, both structural and for alignment. 2668 shows the three pieces before gluing. I use titebond rather than CA because I'm sensitive to CA. I clamp the three pieces as shown in 2669 using the table top and the small piece to gain alignment in both directions for the two long piece. During construction the small piece of balsa must be placed where it doesn't interfere with the construction (2673). Once the stringer is glued to another piece of planking or another stringer the small piece can be removed using an Exacto knife and sandpaper

S45 Construction radio tray as a built in component to the hull.

From: racer577@citystar.com

I am building a new boat and incorperating a few new ideas. One is to
include the radio tray as a built in component to the hull. I added two
1/16 plywood plates that are notched to fit into the frames. This
particular one is designed to hold one servo and a RMG winch. I will see
how this works out. The down side is going to be limited access, but the
up side is light weight and strength.

If there is interest I may build this up for other winch options.

John

S45 Construction Rigging photos from John Fisher

Subject: Star 45 deck rigging

Here are some rigging photo's. Back stay fitting,
jib lead that I used, note that it holds the line off center so
it doesn't get caught in the mast jack, Another shows the notch I
put in the mast so I could put the sail on and the crane that I used,
and another shows my mast jack and vang. Plus a photo of my deck layout on
812.

John

S45 Construction rudders on #812 and #813

From John Fisher:
Here are the two rudder examples, 812 is the thicker one and 813 is thinner. The % thickness is the same on both, but 812 is thicker over more of the rudder since it was a 1/8" pc of balsa that was rounded on the ends. 813 was made by two pcs of 1/64 ply expanded over a 1/8" shaft.

They clearly show the difference in cross section, however they’re a little small to judge the details. Interested in contrasting the radius of the leading edge. Is there much of a difference between the two rudders in the first .125 to .25 of the foil? Typically sections with a sharp leading edge will lead to a pronounced stall as the flow can’t make the sharp turn to stay attached to the low pressure side.

Building the Star45 in Queensland. Aust.

The boat is now fibreglassed and ready for the next job!!

John

Star 45's beating to windward

John Fisher's models hard on the wind.

Star 45 Model Boat: 2004 Julie Ayres Award Winner - Mel Holman of Toledo, Ohio

Star 45 Class: "Featured in Model Yachting #113


2004 Julie Ayres Award Winner - Mel Holman of Toledo, Ohio

The Julie Ayres Craftsmanship and Beauty Trophy is awarded to the Star 45 owner voted by the participants at the yearly National Championship Regatta for what they feel is the most beautiful boat and shows the most Craftsmanship in the building of a competitive Star 45.

The Julie Ayres Craftsmanship and Beauty Trophy is awarded to the Star 45 owner voted by the participants at the yearly National Championship Regatta for what they feel is the most beautiful boat and shows the most Craftsmanship in the building of a competitive Star 45."

Star 45 Construction : Stand for tuning finished model

John Fisher sent these in. It might spark some thought for other people as well. He does not claim to have come up with this design, You can use any materials that you have handy, He has a mill and a welder, so his ended up in aluminum. these stands have been built from PVC and Copper pipe as well.

The stand has a vertical tube that is the pivot for direction. This way the boat can feather into the wind. If the ground is soft enough where you sail it can be pushed into the ground. Works fine in so-cal but not very well in colorado. Next there is a H shaped part that holds the boat. His are machined and welded aluminum, but he has seen this part done with copper water pipe or PVC pipe. He added the foam for insulating water pipes to prevent the boat from being scratched. The H should be able to rotate. This allows the boat to heel in the stand when force is applied to the sails. Connect the two and you have your stand. On his stand the connector is a pcs of 1/2" diameter SS tubing bent 90 deg. It provides both motions needed.



The boat shown is a hard chine 10R Class called the Diamond.


John Fisher has cutting files available for hard chine model 10R Class as well.
They go fast :-). John's 10R Class carries 1500 sq in of sail, is 65"
long and only 9" wide.

Star 45 Construction | modeler: John Whiteford, Rochedale, Queensland, Australia

Thought you may like to see a boat being built in Rochedale, Queensland, Australia. John Fisher kindly sent me the dxf files and I had them laser cut and everything is going together well with the hull now fibreglassed. I have all of his photos and comments in separate plastic folders and now quite a collection. He is certainly a delightful person and a great help.
John Whiteford

Photographs by John Whiteford

Star 45 Construction, radio, sail controls, servos, mast support,

Radio Board stringers between bulkheads
(Note the method of keel support using these stringers)



Radio Board



Rudder Servo



Mast support (inside hull)

S45 Construction Keel: trunk , alignment, support

Here is how John Fisher built two Star45 keel trunks. First he make a aluminum mandrel that is the same size and shape of the top of his keels. Next he waxed the aluminum and then put a single layer of wax paper over the mandrel.

He used a light spray of 3M 77 to stick the ends together on the second one. The first one had a pc of tape, which is now a part of the trunk.

The mandrel with waxed paper is wrapped with glass which he again used 3M 77 to hold in place. He has not verified that this doesnt have any long term effects to the glass so use at your own risk. John used 2 layers 3.2 oz glass with glass tape on the top and bottom edges to help add some stregth. Usually he would add kevlar, but that is not allowed in the star's. One the glass was in place John wet the whole thing with resin. If you dont have any way to vac bag the trunk, just let it cure and remove the mandrel. The trunk weighted in at 1 oz.

John has a food vacuum sealer so he put a release paper over the top (wax paper with holes in it), then breather cloth (he hasused paper towels in the past), and then into a food saver bag for the night.

To remove the mandrel he used a hammer and a vice. He knows that sounds severe, but that is what it took to get the mandrel back out. He started by placing the mandrel into a vice with smooth jaws. The jaws were just far enough apart that the aluminum would fit between them, but not the fiber glass wrap. Then he tapped the mandrel out. He points out how much force it took for him to get this apart so you can design your keel top with this in mind.

Photo 01- mandrel before prep
Photo 03 -mandrel with glass, ready for resin
Photo 04-keel trunk in food saver bag. You can see the resin going into the breather cloth.
Photo 05 - keel trunk off the mandrel, note the tape. 2nd trunk used3M 77 instead.
Photo 06 - Trunk on the keel.





The following picture shows the way that John aligned the keel on his second boat.
Since the keel is plate and 1/8" thick I laid a straight edge on it and
aligned it with the pc at the center of the transom. I did this on both
sides to make sure it is centered as well.

To capture the top of the keel box he added 2 1/8" X 3/8" spruce blocks
to the top of the keel trunk and glued them to the king plank. The photo also shows the glass tape He used to reinforce the
radio tray.

John Fisher photographer

===

here is an alternative keel trunk (from Uncle Dave)

I poked my camera down into the Sirius 45 and snapped a couple of pictures showing how the keel is attached to allow it to be removed and another installed.

The keel is a aluminum fin with my flat bottomed bulb. The keel trunk is assembled over the keel fin before mounting the trunk in the hull. The trunk is pretty simple. Two pieces of 1/8 ply on either side of the fin. Cut flush across the top of the fin. Height is determined by the amount of the fin to extend into the hull. Length is determined by the shadows or braces to support the fin. A filler pieced goes between the sides so that fin can be slid own and out of the trunk.

Before gluing the trunk up it is very important to coat the insides of the trunk to make the sides of the trunk as water resistant as you can. The the fun part is placing two mounting bolts through the sides of the trunk and thought the keel fin. I think the two bolts in the picture were 1/2 long 3/8 inch dia.



I placed a heavy wire through the both the bolt heads so I could turn the nuts on the other side.



With the nuts removed the two bolts simply push to one side and the keel fin mounted or removed as the case may be. In my models the height of the fin inside the model is low enough for a swing arm sail control to fit properly. I use Probar (now Dumas) SCU's.

Before building the deck I simply dropped the trunk (with keel fin) through the slot in the bottom of the hull so the trunk rests on the keelson. The hull being fiberglass the trunk if filleted with the bottom using some auto body resin-paste. I think I also used the resin paste to mount the keel trunk in my wooden models (memory escapes me its been years). The ends of the trunk are braced to the chine to with stand leverage forces from the heavy keel bulb and sailing stresses.



When the two bolts are tightened they not only hold the keel in place they also pull the sides of the of the trunk tightly together. With the tight fit one should expect the keel fin may stick in the trunk if some sort of lubricant (silicone) isn't used.

Construction Star 45, building rudder and installation

Here are some photo's showing one way to build a rudder quickly and easily. The quick overview is cut out the shape in a thin material, tape the sides together, insert the rudder shaft, fill the inside of the rudder with epoxy. This takes about 10 min or so to do. Followed by installation in your boat.

John Fisher

Lay out the rudder shape on a sheet of 1/64 ply. On other class boats John used a single layer of a 6 oz carbon fiber layup, so you could also lay up some fiberglass for use on the star. To do a glass layup, just take a sheet of 6 oz or heavier fiberglass, a sheet of lexan or plexiglass, and some resin. The first step is to spread resin on the plexiglass, then apply the fiberglass and then make sure it is all wetted out. Once cure flex the plexiglass and the layup will pop off.

Shows the two sides cut out of plywood, these could be fiberglass instead. Straight sided shapes like shown and the star plans are easier to make.

Tape the two sides together with masking tape. With curved shapes He taped them together then insert the shaft and resin. If you use straight sides on the rudder you can tape one side and then open it up like a book, apply resin, then close and tape shut. The open book method uses less resin but only works with sq or straight sided shapes.

Note the bend John put in the shaft to prevent it from turning inside the rudder.

Shows the top open to pour in resin. John uses a syringe to pour in resin once the shaft is in place. You can add micro balloons to the resin if concerned about weight.



Installing Rudder in Star 45

John Fisher photographer

S45 Construction Deck(s), Hatches

from John Fisher:
Attaching deck to hull

John Fisher photographer

Hull with deck mounted:

John Fisher photographer

--------------------

HATCHES:

From Phil Geren:
The simplest hatch cover solution I have found for Star 45 is to cut a piece out of Presentation Cover vinyl, which cut-out is shaped like the hatch opening but 1/4 or 3/8 of an inch larger on all sides. Then, apply electrician's tape (1/2 or 3/4" wide) all around the perifery, so that half the tape is on the vinyl and half is hanging over the edge.

Presentation Cover vinyl which I get at Office Depot is about 15 cents a sheet; it is about 0.008" thick; it is slightly over 8.5X11" in size; a full sheet weighs about 16 grams; it is stiff, but flexible; it is crystal clear, but if you want it opaque, just wet sand it with #400 grit wet or dry sandpaper.

Position the hatch cover over the hatch so that the tape extends evenly past the hatch opening an equal distance all around, and then just press on the tape to stick it to the deck. It's waterproof, durable.

You can make spares and stick them to another piece of vinyl and carry that with you to the races. That keeps spares nice and flat and keeps the tape's sticky side clean for future use. A set of these hatch covers usually lasts me all season. At lunch, I take one cover off to allow the boat to dry out, sticking the cover to a dry vinyl sheet to keep the tape's sticky side clean.

Photo is Star 45 #778, freshly rebuilt for the Nationals this year, and a set of covers on the floor next to her.

Phil Geren photographer

--
from Uncle Dave:
I pulled one of my old Star45's from the attic and have it here in my workshop. It has a fiberglass Sirius 45 hull, a aircraft ply deck and aluminum keel fin. Unfortunately it is not one of my finest examples of workmanship or painting. However I'll suffer the embarrassment and use if to show some one style of hatch construction.

Carrying around a model around out of the water is no big deal. Taking a model out of the water can be something else. You first need to hang onto the model. Then find a place to take hold to lift the model. This is one of the reasons I have used easily removable hatches. You can grab the model through the hatch, fingers under the deck and pick it up. Of course a thin ply deck the model deck and hatch construction needs to be strong enough to withstand pulling on the deck and lifting a twelve pound plus model. Therefore I braced my decks around hatch areas.

First I built a flanged frame for the hatch to sit in that also extended under the deck and attached to the deck bracing.


Then I built a hatch cover based on the size of the hatch. Initially the hatch cover was made to fit very loosely in the hatch. I then took some silicone (tub seal or similar) squeezed a bead around the shelf/lip of the hatch. The covering the hatch opening with food wrap poly sheeting I'd push the hatch cover in place down into the silicone. This made a nice water tight gasket around the edge of the hatch. After waiting a day I'd remove the plastic, trim and silicone that showed topside. With the silicone dry, pop the hatch cover in place and check the fit.



I placed a strip of magnetic tape on either end of the cover and on each end of the hatch frame.



When the hatch cover and hatch mag tapes touched they pulled together. This magnetic tape is neat stuff you can pop the cover in place and it will stay put.

Typically I made my hatches about 4"X5" giving me plenty of deck to the sheer.


I heavy weather if the model might go over on beams end I'd cover the seams with tape just to be extra watertight. A 4X5 hatch gives room to get inside, adjust winch, radio etc, and to remove any water that got into the bilge while sailing.

S45 Construction planking the bottom

Photograph by John Fisher

Photograph by John Fisher

Since it was requested here are a couple of photo's of planking the
bottom of my two wood/glass stars. photo 01 is the bottom of the first
star about half way done. Planks are 1/16 X 3/8 balsa. These were cut
from a 48" long sheet. Weigh your balsa before buying it. I would not
use a 3 X 48 sheet that weighed in at more than 22g. It takes 3 sheets
to cover the bottom and you could add another 1 to 1.5 oz by using
heavy balsa.
I started in the middle and worked to the outside. I sprayed the
shadows with kicker, then put down a plank, then added super fast CA to
hold it down. If the kicker was not dry enough it would cure before it
wicked into the joint which would cause the next plank to not fit
correctly. I had some variation in the planks, but once they were
glassed the bottom smoothed out quite a bit.
If I were to do another one I would add the half frames. I will be
adding them to the DXF files in the next couple of days for anyone
wishing to cut a set.
Picture shows the bottom after it was completely planked. On the
second boat I got a nice pattern on the bottom since the balsa sheets
had different grain structure. I sanded the sided flush and got the
bottom relatively smooth, but not perfect. With the balsa planks they
were flexible and if sanded too much you get thin spots at the frames.
The glass smoothed out inperfections. If doing a hard wood bottom the
planks should fit better than what I did with the balsa.

====

From: "John Fisher"
Subject: Photo's of star 45 double diagonal planked

Here are some photo's of Sherwood Jones Star 45 with double diagonal bottom planking. He used two layers of 1/16 planking. The planks are 1" wide. He then covered it with 1 ½oz glass. Weight is about the same as mine with the 1/16 longitudinal planks and two layers of 3.2 oz glass. Just goes to show that there are multiple ways to solve a problem.

S45 Construction -- Sirius 45 drawings, set 2

Here is a second group of Sirius 45 drawings from June of 1981. They are early drawings for the Star 45 class fiberglass hulls I produced in the 80's. Those hulls were sold under the name "Sirius 45". Since then the Class drawings have gone through three major revisions. There are current official drawings are avaible from the AMYA store. These old drawings should still meet the keel and standing rigging specifications since they do not offer hull offset dimensions. IMHO they can be used with wooden models built using laser shadows which meet the class specifications. The Sirus 45 keel is the Mainwaring Keel found on the current Class drawings.

These copied drawings can be printed out and overlap to enable you to paste them together.

Star 45 Construction --Sirius 45 drawings, set 1

Here are a group of Sirius 45 drawings from June of 1981. They are early drawings for the Star 45 class fiberglass hulls I produced in the 80's. Those hulls were sold under the name "Sirius 45". Since then the Class drawings have gone through three major revisions. There are current official drawings are avaible from the AMYA store. These old drawings should still meet the keel and standing rigging specifications. They do not offer hulloffset dimensions. IMHO they can be used with wooden models built using laser shadows which meet the class specifications. The Sirus 45 keel is the Mainwaring Keel found on the current Class drawings.

These copied drawings can be printed out and overlap to enable you to paste them together.








Here is a keel on a Sirius 45 S45 model.

Star 45 Construction; JF Covering a wooden hull with fiberglass

From: "John Fisher" racer577 at citystar.com

I have used the 3.2 oz satin weave on 7 boats now. The first was a single layer and now that hull is 4 or 5 years olds it is showing wear and tear. I went to using 2 layers to help with durability and to have more material for sanding. Another thing I like about the cloth is that is drapes very nicely and easily will cover the hull with one pc. On my 10R's I have used 2 yards folded in half to do the hull. On the star I was concerned that it would be too wide for a single yard. I ended up with more than enough material so I cut it on the diagonal.

The glassing starts by laying the glass over the hull. Then I smooth it out so there are no wrinkles. This may take a couple of min. Then I repeat with the next layer. Once the glass is smooth, time for epoxy. I used the 209/105 west systems combination. I used about 10 pumps of material.

I start applying resin to the middle of the bottom with a cheap paint brush. Then I work my way out to the edges of the bottom. Next I do the sides. You need to use lots of resin and dont pull too much or you will pucker the cloth. Once everything is wetted out I go back with a squigee and remove the excess resin. Dont get to carried away or the cloth will go dry again. If in doubt of how this should look practice on a spare block of wood first to get a feel for how the cloth looks as you take out resin.

I did the glassing at about 8 pm and with the 105/209 the resin is still green at 7 am the next morning. When green the glass can be trimmed with a #11 blade in a hobby knife. Then wait another day or two until sanding for full cure. I dont like to do much sanding, instead I try and do most of my fairing by using a thick primer and sanding most of it off between coats. For a clear boat I use polyurethane for a top coat.

S45 Construction John Fisher's first hull off the board August 12, 2006

John Fisher writes: "Well, the first hull came off the board this morning and it was 17 oz with all the frames. So with 1/16 oz balsa planking and 2 layers of 3.2 oz satin weave glass I came out pretty close to the 16 oz. I would have liked to be slightly lighter, but this is pretty good. The second boat should be lighter since I used lighter balsa. If you are going to build a star in this manner take a scale to the store when you buy your balsa and weigh it. The bottom planking sheets I used varied from 14g to 32g for 1/16 X 3 X 48. I didnt use any of the 32 g sheets. The first boat sheets were about 22g each and the 2nd boat was 14 to 15 g per sheet and there are 3 sheets for the bottom. So that should be a 1/2 oz difference between hulls."

"I am sure that I could make the frames lighter. On my 10R's I used .150" wide frames and on the star I used the 3/8 wide per the plans. I am sure I can thin them down to 1/4" or .200 without loosing much strength and it should drop the weight by another oz or two."

John FIsher




I am planning on using thinned west epoxy to coat the inside. I will do it one the keel trunk and radio tray are installed. Radio tray will be a sheet of ply with holes for the servo's.

I will use a carbon rod for a push rod for the rudder.

Deck will be thin ply or fiberglass.

2006 Augst 13, BTW:
The planking was 3/8" wide strips of 1/16 balsa. {John} sprayed the frames with kicker, then put the planks on, then hit with a drop of 1 sec CA. Might not have to use the kicker in houston, but here in CO there is just no humidity to kick off the CA. {John} did not taper the planks and any gaps were filled by epoxy when the bottom was glassed. Took about 1 hour to plank each boat.

Star 45 Construction notes (1) Getting Started

"John Fisher" is building Star 45's. He has provided a series of photographs taken as he builds the model from scratch.
These are posted to the blog along with his notes to help builders assemble the Star 45.

In the following posts you will find comments, notes. and his photographs

Photo's showing the building board and the first couple of steps for putting the frames together.
Building board is 3" wide 3/4" MDF that is glued/screwed together.

The notched balsa template is glued to the building board using a straight edge
to make sure it stays straight.

The vertical part is installed once the stern section is assembled. These parts keep the shadows sq and vertical.

Photo showing adding of the stringers, rails and chine.
For the single chine version, there is only one pc of material for the chine instead of 2 as shown in the photo's.

Photo showing the 1/8X3/8 spruce for the chain plates. This needs to be installed before the rails go in.

Photo showing the two keel pcs going in these are 3/8 by 1/8. He used balsa, but could be done with spruce instead.

Photo showing adding the rails. Notice that the rails are made of two pcs. 1/4X1/8 for the first one and then 3/8X1/8 for the second. You need to start both at the transom. Start at the transom with the rails and stringers. Start one side and go forward to station 9 or 10, then do the same on the other side. Then go all the way to the front with one side. Starting both sides at the same time keep the transom from twisting.

Photo showing the bottom stringers. 1/8X1/8.

Photo showing all the rails and stringers installed, ready for planking.

Photo showing adding the side planking and sanding to get ready for bottom planking.
He used 1/16" balsa for my hulls since he will be covering it with glass.

It probably will work the same if you are using harder woods, but you will probably want to trace the outline onto the wood and cut close to shape before gluing it on.

Photo showing side plank after being glued on. John used thin ca and glued the 4" wide plank on.
Make sure it is located correctly before starting gluing.
Note the small patch on the bow of the back boat. John did not have the plank far enough forward.

Photo showing the planks after being trimmed close to the stringers.
John used a # 11 Exacto to trim the balsa planks.
Go slow and take multiple passes here. You don't want to remove too much material or you will get a gap when the bottom is planked. Also trim the rails close at this point.
The rails/side joint will be finished once the hull is taken off the board.

Photo showing the close stringer sanded to fit the side and the back stringer still need to be sanded.
John used a sanding block and sand the sides to match the bottom curve. Balsa sands really easy so this is pretty quick. He used 220 grit paper

Photo showing both hulls with sides matching the bottom curve and ready for planking.

Photo showing the bow sections after sanding and ready for bottom planking.

==

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Star45/ for discussions with other Star 45 sailors.

S45 Construction bow details - sides planked-- ready for bottom

"John Fisher" is building Star 45's. He has provided a series of photographs taken as he builds the model from scratch.

S45 Construction Planking - transom detail -

Two hulls with sides matching the bottom curve and ready for planking.



View of Transom construction.

S45 Construction sanding stringers P05

"John Fisher" is building Star 45's. He has provided a series of photographs taken as he builds the model from scratch.

Photo shows the close stringer sanded to fit the side and the back stringer still need to be sanded. John used a sanding block and sand the sides to match the bottom curve. Balsa sands really easy so this is pretty quick. He used 220 grit paper.

S45 Construction trimming planks P02

Photo 2 shows the planks after being trimmed close to the stringes. John use a # 11 exacto to trim the balsa planks. Go slow and take multiple passes here. You dont want to remove too much material or you will get a gap when the bottom is planked. Also trim the rails close at this point. The rails/side joint will be finished once the hull is taken off the board.

S45 Construction installing side planking P03

Photo 3 shows a side plank after being glued on. John used thin ca and glued the 4" wide plank on. Make sure it is located correctly before starting gluing. Note the small patch on the bow of the back boat. He did not have the plank far enough forward.

S45 Construction rails and stringers installed

rails and stringers ready for planking.

S45 Construction adding bottom stringers P22

Photo 22 shows adding the bottom stringers. 1/8X1/8.

S45 Construction Keel pieces P-20

Photo 20 shows the two keel pieces going in these are 3/8 by 1/8. John used balsa, but could be done with spruce instead.

S45 Construction adding the rails p-21

Photo 21 shows adding the rails. Notice that the rails are made of two pcs. 1/4X1/8 for the first one and then 3/8X1/8 for the second. You need to start both at the transom. Start at the transom with the rails and stringers. Start one side and go forward to station 9 or 10, then do the same on the other side. Then go all the way to the front with one side. Starting both sides at the same time keep the transom from twisting.

S45 Construction 1/8X3/8 spruce for the chain plates P-17

John's photo showing the 1/8X3/8 spruce for the chain plates.
These need to be installed before the rails go in.

Star 45 Model Sailboat, HULL,

Attached photo of today's effort plus the latest on my boat.
{From: "John Whiteford" Queensland. Australia }

Star 45 Model Sailboat, HULL, ss files - templates. shadows, bulkheads

To model builders: Here downloadable files for Star 45 shadows (aka templates, bulkheads). They reside on my site: http://www.mainzone.com/star45frames/.You can use your browser, go to www.mainzone.com/star45frames/ select the files you want and they will download to your machine. BTW, only the single stringer files are available from Mainzone.com/.

John has two sets available. Mainzone has the ones for a single chine stringer.
John wrote:
"one for 2 1/8X 1/8 stringers at the chine and one with 1/4" sq stock at the chine. The SS at the end of the file signifies the single chine stringer. Both use the same building board. Note that the building board is cut for 1/8" lite ply which actually runs about .110" thick."


DXF and PDF files provided by:John racer577 at citystar.com August 06, 2006

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Most laser plotters used to cut materials require DFX files

DXF files are CAD vector data - plotter files that instruct a device to "start here" then put the (pen, knife) down and "move to, go to"...

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Building Star 45 model sail boats with laser cut shadows

From: "John Fisher"


I started building my two boats with the laser cut shadows last night. They look good. About 4 hours to build two building boards, put shadows/frames on the boards and apply stringers.

Look Look My Boat is sinking, Flotation Balloons for Star45 model sail boat

From Phil Geren, 2006 August 1

It makes perfect sense to put light weight, sealed, plastic balloons/etc. inside a Star 45, with total buoyancy equivalent to at least 12 lbs (or whatever the boat's weight is). Install it so that it cannot interfere with control mechanisms.

Ron Stephans, Victoria Class champion, has been doing it for years.

Earlier this year, in a race, I hooked masts with another boat, wind was strong, and the conditions were such that my boat was held more or less horizontal, while the other boat was semi-vertical.

My boat was on her beam ends and was taking on water slowly through a couple of Pekabe through deck blocks, where the sheets exit on deck. At first we just decided to let the wind blow the boats to shore, BUT WE SOON REALIZED THAT THERE WAS NO TIME!

My boat was sinking, and it probably would have pulled the other boat down to the extent that water could enter her also. Result: both boats would end up on the bottom.

Luckily, one of the participants had a kayak on his vehicle roof, and we ran to get it. When we got to the boats, mine was over half full of water. Spraying the electronics with Corrosion X got her going again, but I will never forget that experience. I have balloons, now, and maybe even more important, am slightly less aggressive when near others.

"Notes regarding Glues and Adhesives" Star 45 R/C model sail boat

John F. Howard (Star-45 discussion forum, July 31, 2006)

"Gorilla Glue does foam a bit, but nothing like foam-in-a-can and has minimum stink. Forget trying to smooth things out, the foam is very, very sticky and keeps growing until it sets up (about an hour) at which point it will still be a little soft (keep clamped for 3-4 hours). Any squeeze/foam out once hard, can be cut, chiseled or sanded smooth. Run a strip of tape along the edge of the glue line and most of the foam out will end up on the tape. The best joints are tight ones that use a minimum of glue. For narrow or thin pieces (planking), squeeze out a little puddle (just enough to use in 15-20 minutes) and use a Popsicle stick to spread along the edges. Wear gloves, the stuff stains and is sticky. GG is great for laminating larger areas (spread with an old credit card or playing card)."

"If you use epoxy resin such as West Systems (best, you can adjust the cure rate with the different hardeners) or one of the 30-minute or longer (5-15 minute never gets hard and remains rubbery) such as sold by Great Planes or Tower, stink will not be a problem. The polyester resin does STINK in a big way, it what you can smell in a new fiberglass hull.
CA glues are ok for "tacking" stuff in place until the epoxy sets up, but watch the fumes. CA will fail if used in a wet location for long and also cause a problem with the wood accepting stain. Work with plenty of ventilation and or respirator and wear gloves with any of the above glues and resins, staining of the skin and sensitivity, either skin and or breathing can occur."

"These are base on my experience with the glues mentioned (full size boats, cabinet work and models). Yellow glue such as Titebond or Elmers Carpenter Wood Glue (not waterproof) works fine when encapsulated with epoxy (cedar strip canoe builders use it all the time)."

{ http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Star45/ }

Phil Geren adds a warning note about Glue Fumes:
I have a serious allergic reaction to CA fumes - causes fluid to build up in the lungs, like pneumonia. I still use it, but with a fan blowing air between me and the work. Trying to avoid it.

Phil Geren on Gorilla Glue:2006 August 1
Is it rock hard or rubbery when dry?
I bought some, but have the same reservations as Dave M about foaming, trimming, and sanding. If it doesn't sand well, the finished product won't be as good as what I am aiming for.

Drum model sail winch

photo's courtesy of "Larry Ludwig" at www.LudwigRCYachts.com, Ludwig Mfg.

Masts for Star 45 R/C model sail boat

photo's courtesy of "Larry Ludwig" at www.LudwigRCYachts.com, Ludwig Mfg.

Mast Fittings for Star 45 R/C model sail boat

John Fisher's mast jack is pretty simple. He made a fitting that went in the bottom of the mast that was threaded 8-32. Then He cut down a brass nut from Lowe's and soldered it to a 8-32 bolt. This fits into the mast step and threads into the bottom of the mast. He is going to add a jam nut since the rig seemed to slowly lose tension as he sailed. The lock nut will be another cut down brass nut or a pc of 1/16 aluminum that is threaded 8-32.

Now John's parts are pretty fancy and without a lathe and CNC mill would be hard to make. The quick and easy way to make the same parts is to glue a wood block into the bottom of the mast, then use a blind nut as the thread for the mast jack. JB weld bonds well to aluminum and I would recommend it for gluing in the wood block.

For rig adjustment John would set the shrouds just tight enough that I had to undo the jib from the deck to move the rig. So he gets the shrouds set to have the mast straight, then put it in the right position for the wind speed, then add tension by unscrewing the mast jack. By having the rig set up this way you do not need to adjust your shrouds when moving the rig fore or aft or to change the tension in the forestay.


Here are som eother fittings courtesy of "Larry Ludwig" at www.LudwigRCYachts.com, Ludwig Mfg.

GRP, Vacuum bagging, Fiberglass, Carbon Fiber , Dynel

Stuff you need to know:

Breather fabric is a lightweight, polyester blanket that provides excellent air passage within the vacuum envelope while it absorbs excess epoxy.
60" wide x 2.7 yd, 60" wide x 10 yd. 60" wide x 200 yd rolls:

Release Fabric is a tough, finely woven nylon fabric treated with a release agent. It is used to separate the absorber, breather and vacuum bag from the laminate in vacuum bagging operations. Excess epoxy bleeds through and is peeled from the cured laminate along with the release fabric. Peels easily and leaves a smooth textured surface, ready for bonding or finishing. 60" wide x 2 yd,. 60" wide x 10 yd rolls

Vacuum Bag Film is a Clear, heat-stabilized, modified nylon resin film, tough, stretchable film for high vacuum pressures. 60" wide x 2 yd, 60" wide x 10 yd,60" wide x 20 yd. 60" wide x 333 yd rolls:

Vacuum Bag Sealant; a mastic tape sealant for airtight seals between vacuum bags and molds. Easy to work with around difficult angles, patching small leaks in the system. 1/2" wide x 25' rolls:

Techniques Book on Vacuum Bagging, West System publishes this definitive guide to the principles and application of vacuum bagging techniques for laminating composite materials
with epoxy.

Fiberglass Mat is a Chopped Strand Fiberglass Mat, Offers great conformability with low cost.

Veil Mat 0.09 oz/sq ft

Fiberglass Mat, 3/4 oz/sq ft, 1.5 oz/sq ft, 2.0 oz/sq ft

Fiberglass Cloth 4-, 6- and 10-oz per square yard.

Dynel Fabric is a popular laminate fabric with great abrasion resistance used for museum-quality restoration work on wooden boats. It's strong and supple like a true woven fabric, with no fibers to irritate your skin.
Size Weight, 5 oz

Carbon Fiber lightweight, strong composite can strengthen any project while adding minimal weight.
Plain Weave 5.8 oz
Twill Weave 5.8 oz
Unidirectional 9 oz

Carbon Fiber Tape a unidirectional reinforcing tapes are used
to improve tensile strength and stiffness in one direction with minimal weight.

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You can learn a lot about boat building by reading catalogs for example: www.jamestowndistributors.com/
Many of the same materials are also used in model boat building.

The Jamestown site has several links to model builders, AMYA and other organizations

Star 45 R/C model sail boat Hulls, tips tricks | Class rules

Billie Geisler's comments on building Cedar Hulls,2006 August 1:

I build hulls from cedar rather than balsa. I find a clear, straight grained dog-eared fince picket at Lowes, Home Depot, etc. I cut the rough edges and flats off with a 10 inch table saw, rough cut the planks for the hull, then use a 3 inch table saw from Micro- mark to cut the final planks. I think that cedar is stronger than balse, and I don't think it soaks up as much epoxy. Epoxy is weight. My hulls weigh about the same as a fiberglass hull, and don't oil can.


The plastic sacks that the newspaper is in when it hits your drive is useful as gloves. The epoxy doesn't disolve them. Also, you can cut up the newspaper plastic sack and use to keep the hull from sticking to your clamps. These sacks are also good for picking up dog crap off your lawn, or any other nasty stuff. Just check for holes before using. :-)




AMYA Star 45 Class Rules, 2006, 1.0 Hull:

1.1 The Star 45 Class establishes as their approved plans a set of lines and drawings as the approved reference and construction plans for the class. These plans are scaled and appropriately modified for the use of modelers building a 45-inch model of the Star Boat. Existing plans supplied by kit manufacturers, etc. are grandfathered. New molds, plugs and scratch built models shall conform to the approved plans and specifications.

1.2 Hull length will be 45 inches (plus or minus one half (1/2) inch overall. (NOTE: this does not include any chain plate for backstay attachment, or 1/4 inch bow bumper if used. However, if the chain plate is attached to the transom or overhangs the transom, it may not extend beyond the transom more than 3/8 of a inch.) Hulls may not be less than 11 inches nor exceed 12 inches in beam when measured at the widest point on the deck. (Rubrails are not included in measuring but will not exceed 1/4 inch of thickness/width.)

1.3 In the event of a builder choosing to scratch or hand build a Star 45 Yacht, the builder must adhere to the class approved reference and construction drawings, as obtained from the AMYA Ships Store, as in the builders ability. A second consideration in scratch building is to ensure that safe and sound building practice be maintained.

1.4 All hulls will be constructed of wood or fiberglass or a combination of wood and fiberglass and be a minimum of 16 ounces when weighed before attachment of the deck and keel. This weight must be
verified by another member of the Star 45 Class using the Class Measurement Form.

1.5 Decks shall be constructed of wood, fiberglass or plastic laminate material.

1.6 All hulls shall be the standard hard-chine hull. Hulls may be built with a sheer at scale height or with a sheer no more than one inch higher than scale (when measured at the point of maximum depth of sheer.)

1.7 All fiberglass and wood hulls will have a name plate permanently attached to the inside of the hull so as to be seen when the hatch cover is removed.

1.8 At or before its first Sanctioned Regatta the newly built model yacht must be measured using, as reference, the approved measurement form and signed by not less than the owner of the model yacht and one other member of the class. This measurement form shall become, with the registration card, a permanent record of this model yacht.

1.9 The AMYA Star 45 Class recognizes and approves the molds and manufacturer and/or kit packagers of Star 45 molded hulls and kits in existence at the time of approval of these specifications. These sources will be approved sources for the class. New manufacturers will be directed to submit the first of their product to the Class Secretary for approval.

1.10 No maximum weight is specified, however, no yacht will weigh less than 12 pounds when fully rigged ready to sail. This means with all gear, rigging, sails, radio components, batteries and ballast placed and secured on board.

1.11 Bow Bumpers are mandatory for all class registered STAR 45 yachts. Bow bumpers are limited to three eight's of an inch (3/8") overhang. Bow bumpers shall be excluded in the overall length measurement, whether recessed in or otherwise attached to the bow stem. Bow bumpers must be of resilient fabrication to minimize damage to another yacht in the event of a collision.

Star 45 R/C model sail boat | DECK

Phil Geren on Staining Wood Deck Materials:
I was planning to stain planks prior to assembly, then use CA first, to get things fitted together and in place, then cover with 0.25 oz. fiberglass cloth and "thinned" (MEK or IPA) epoxy. Flex Coat epoxy people (fishing rod mfgrs) recommend heating the epoxy surface with a heat gun (hot air) prior to it's hardening, to release bubbles and smooth the surface, like what you see on fine fishing rods.

AMYA Star 45 Class Rules, 2006, DECK

8.1 Deck construction shall be limited to wood, plywood, fiberglass reinforced plastic or plastic
laminations (Formica). It may be covered with any material. Thin plastic films, such as MonoKote,
are not allowed for decks except as coverings.

8.2 Hatches are not restricted in size, location, number or style, as long as deck strength and
integrity are maintained.

Star 45 R/C model sail boat | Sails

AMYA Star 45 Class Rules, 2006, Sails

2.1 Sails may be of single or multi-paneled construction. Sail material shall be unrestricted.

2.2 All sails are to be cut to comply with the following maximum dimensions when measured by the procedure as outlined in the "AMYA Regulations". Dimensions shown are measured 'Edge of Cloth" to "Edge of Cloth" and are in inches.

2.3
MAIN JIB
Luff 62.75 42.50
Foot 25.50 15.75
Leech 65.50 37.00
Roach 2.00 0.50
Head 0.75 0.75
Foot Round 0.50 0.50

2.4 All sails, main and jib, will be cut with either a straight head to clew leech with no roach, or a fair
curved head to clew leech with the maximum roach point occurring approximately one half the distance from the clew to head. Divide a straight line from the aft corners of the Clew and Head into four (4) equal sections. Then, for the Main Sail, maximum offset from edge of cloth for the Roach at the quarter points to be 1.75" and the offset at the mid-point to be 2.0". For the Jib, the offset at the quarter points to be 0.375" and at the mid-point to be 0.50". Sails cut with a straight leech at the maximum roach allowance are prohibited from use on the Star 45 Class Yacht.

2.5 The mainsail gooseneck or attachment will be attached to the Mast between 0.50 inch minimum to 4.0 inch maximum measured from the deck.

2.6 Battens are allowed on the mainsail but are restricted to 4 in number, equally spaced along the leech and may not exceed 8.50 inches in length. Battens are not permitted in the jib sail.

2.7 Sailmakers must conform to the above measurements.

9.1 Each yacht shall carry on her main sail the class 5 point "STAR EMBLEM" and an assigned AMYA registration number. The star shall be at least 2 inches in size (measured from point to point across the flat of the star) and positioned above the registration number. Registration numbers shall be at least 3 inches in height and at least 3/8 inch thick. Both star and registration numbers will be placed on the upper half of the mainsail on both port and starboard sides of the mainsail and shall be positioned so as to be easily read from either side.

Star 45 R/C model sail boat | Mast and Boom

AMYA Star 45 Class Rules, 2006, Mast and Boom

3.1 Masts shall be made of wood or aluminum. Swing rigs, rotating and permanently bent masts are prohibited.

3.2 Masts shall not exceed 3/4 inches square when measured at the thickest point of the mast. Maximum mast height shall be 70" when measured from the deck, inclusive of the crane. Rotating wind indicators and burgee staffs are not included provided the backstay is not attached to them in order to circumvent the 70" maximum mast height specification.

4.0 BOOMS:

4.1 The main boom and jib club shall not exceed 5/8" when measured at the thickest point. Booms and jib clubs shall be constructed of wood, aluminum and/or fiberglass.

Star 45 R/C model sail boat | Rudder

AMYA Star 45 Class Rules, 2006, Rudder

6.1 Rudders may be constructed of wood, fiberglass, plastic, plastic laminates or metal. The exact shape is not specified, but they may not exceed 4 1/2 inches at the hull (fore and aft) 3 inches at the bottom, (fore and aft); and may not project more than 7 inches below the hull when measured at the post..

Star 45 R/C model sail boat | Keels and keel-ballast bulbs

AMYA Star 45 Class Rules, 2006, KEELS AND BALLAST BULBS


7.1 Keel will be of the style known as drop, and will be of the FIN and BULB type.

7.2 Keel fins may be solid or hollow and constructed of reinforced plastic, plastic laminates, fiberglass, wood or metal. (Note: Strength and integrity of the keel fins must be maintained whether built solid or hollow.) Keel fin shape is not specified but must follow the general shapes outlined on the reference drawing. However, keels will not be less than 6 inches nor more than 8 inches long (Fore and Aft) at the keel/hull junction, nor less than 4 inches nor more than 6 inches long (Fore and Aft) at the keel/ballast bulb junction.

7.3 Keels, keel fins and ballast bulbs may be removable, however, they may not be changed, interchanged, substituted or otherwise manipulated once any heat or series of heats in which scores will be compiled, has started. Mechanically movable keels or ballast bulbs are specifically prohibited from use in Star 45 Class Yachts.

7.4 Ballast bulbs may be constructed of any material not prohibited by the AMYA. The actual shape is left to the builder's discretion, but will not exceed 9.75 (9 3/4) inches from the front of the keel bulb to the rearmost point of the keel or bulb.

7.5 Total drop (length) of the keel fin/ballast bulb combination will not exceed 11.5 (11 1/2) inches when measured from the keel/hull junction, before any fillers or streamlining is added.

7.6 Ballast may be made from any readily available material, such as poured lead, lead shot, etc. (Note: When using material such as lead shot, the mass must be solidified through the use of a bonding agent such as fiberglass or epoxy resin, plaster of paris, poured over and through in order to create a solid mass.)

7.7 Race directors may elect to use a template based on the construction plans to determine the keel length (depth).

7.8 Keel depth shall be measured from the center of the keel fin at the hull to the bottom of the ballast bulb. This measurement is from the edge of the bottom of the hull as it meets the side of the keel and should be determined during construction and before any fillet or fairing is added.

7.9 The Star 45 Class specifically excludes radio equipment, sail controls and batteries (power cells) from being considered ballast. This specification defines ballast as anything carried aboard the model for the main purpose of changing the weight distribution of the model and/or weight of the model. Ballast shall be fixed in place by gluing, fiberglassing, or bolting (bolts and screws).

7.9.1 Ballast may not be removed or relocated during any one regatta. The use of Velcro or similar quick release fasteners is prohibited as methods of mounting ballast.

Star 45 R/C model sail boat , making a keel bulb mold and Castings

From Jim Adams:

I made a plug from balsa and finished it to a smooth finish second I used two aluminum pans (the kind that you throw away) I filled the first one with plaster took the bulb (well waxed) and placed it in the plaster half way in I used two pins through the center to hold it down. let that dry then pull out the plug next put thin saran wrap over the mold and place the plug back in the hole.

Now comes the fun part I used rubber bands to hold the plug in place (remember I had two pins that extend past the mold walls) next fill the second pan with plaster and lay the first on top it is kind of messy but it works. When the second half dries (about two hours) pull them apart. You will need to plug the holes at the ends on the sides and create small air path upward in the and a spur (looks like a funnel when you
are dune this needs to be big enough to pour in the led) at the end.

Billie Geisler's comments regarding "Keel Bulbs 2006 August 1:

I advise against using tire weights for ballast bulbs, because the tire weights seem to be some sort of alloy, and not pure lead. The markings on the weights are a good indicator, as different physically sized weights have the same ounce values stamped on them. So, if you use tire weights, you will have a physically larger bulb to achieve the necessary weight, thus more wetted surface friction, resistance through the water.

I go to the plumbing supply store to buy lead. This lead is much denser than tire weights. The lead comes in various shapes, some like hocky pucks, and some like Snickers bars. The Snickers bars fit into my lead pot better.

Incidentally, fishing supply stores sometimes carry electric lead pots, along with fishing weight molds. Good use for your tire weights. I was lucky enough to find a lead pot at a garage sale, sold by a rifleman who no longer cast his own bullets.

Consider mounting the ballast bulb on the keel fin at an angle, about 1 to 3 degrees up at the front. You can find info on performance of this arrangement on some IOM sites. It makes a substantial difference in boat speed on an IOM.

I cast my bulbs in two plaster of paris molds. One mold for the outer cheeks of the bulb(split fore and aft), and one for a center peice, to go between the cheeks. The thin (about 1/8 inch thick) center peice can be easily cut for fitting the fin, and drilled for adjusting the weight. If I need filler, I mix buckshot with epoxy. I can rough sand the lead with a belt sander, with very course belt. The course belt doesn't fill with lead.

Thinning Epoxy

In a post to Yahoo Star 45 Groups Terry Forbes reveals his method for thinning epoxy so that it soaks, as a first coat, thoroughly into basswood planked decks he builds.
He adds 90% isopropyl alcohol ('rubbing" alcohol) to mixed epoxy, using an eyedropper, until the viscosity is what he wants.
Apparently, this does not adversely affect curing.
I find this fascinating and useful info.

Star 45 R/C model sail boat | decks made from bass wood strips

From Terry Forbes:
"The Star 45 boats that I have built have decks made from bass wood strips that are 1/4" X 1/16". I find them easy to use and easy to bend with out fracturing. I use thick ca to bond to hull frames and to the adjoining strip. When is have it all glued down, I sand with 120 grit and then 200. I use a soft rag to wipe off deck but leave the cracks filled with the sanding dust or "wood Flower" I then give it a thinned coat of slow cure epoxy. This first coat will soak into the wood completely. I then use un-thinned epoxy for the second and third coat, wet sanding and tack ragging between coats. If you want a really glassy deck, I use a finish coat of Captians Spar varnish. I have used this finish technique on full scale boats and all of my Kayaks. Very nice and durable finish. The decks go on easy and I try to stagger the strips one dark one light. I built a full scale star in the early 60's and had a striped planked deck. I like the look and it builds light. It keeps the hull true as sometimes when you add the deck using plywood it can cause it to move around. I will post some photos of my next hull as it comes to life. I have constructed a ships-way. I used the formers that are shown on the IMYA star plans. I now only have to cut the actual hull formers. I Stack cut 4 at a time on my trusty Dremmel Moto Shop Saw. I have added some lighting holes here and there. All in all I can have a hull lofted in 1 hr. and the sides on that evening using 20-min epoxy to coat the frames and the inside of the hull side. I first made my side peaces out of poster board. This allowed me to get the fit close and have a template to trace the sides for cutting. "

"I get all of my wood from Lone Star Balsa in Texas.. It is run by Riley Wooten "

HiTec HS-725 or HS-785 Winches | SCU's

From: "Stephen Pratt" :

"On the North Coast (Ohio), are using HiTec HS-725 or HS-785 Winches. Bob Luther developed a mechanism to work an endless loop system of sail control. Fits inside the Star 45 with plenty room to spare."

how much weight/advantage can be gained by using a lighter hull?

From "Larry Ludwig"

"If you are dealing with a 16 ounce hull, how much weight/advantage can be gained by using a lighter hull?

If you will test the boats with different keels, with as much as a 3 oz difference between hulls... you will find that there is virtually no noticeable, or measureable difference... and at that weight (3oz) you are 4 times the typical amount of error that would occur from weighing the keel while attached to the boat. This method has been used at many many regattas for 30 years and works well enough."

Weighing a keel while attached to a boat

From "Larry Ludwig"

"Weighing a keel while attached to a boat can be done with a high degree of accuracy. You can test this out on a boat with a removeable keel. Lay the boat on it's side with the keelbulb on the scale with the keel parallel to the table. Then take the keel off and weight it and you will be amazed that they are nearly the same, as in within 95% or better."

WINCHRAFT #1 by Bob Harris (swingarm SCU, 1979)

Harris Engineering of Springfield, Va. has furnished the following excellent article, WINCHRAFT #1: which we reprint here with the permission of Bob Harris. (1979)

"You say you're having trouble figuring out how to set up your HERCULES or Little Herc? -- or somebody else's swingarm Sail Control Unit? Perhaps the following thoughts will help.

1. Think of the moving arm of the winch as forming 2 sides of an isosceles

triangle when it is full in and full out -- or if you like it better, at one end of its travel and the other. You can measure it better, at one end of its travel and the other. You can measure the included angle between the two equal sides formed by the two positions of the winch arm -- right? Now, the third side (the hypotenuse for you geometricians) is the distance the sheet line will travel, if it is tied to the end of the arm, and the winch is operated through its full travel. So, the question really is, how do you find the hypotenuse of an isosceles triangle? Well, the formula:

a = 2c sin A/2

Where a is the hypotenuse, c is the length of the SCU arm from pivot to the point of sheet attachment, and A is the angle included between the two end positions of the SCU arm. It also happens that the included angle is 90 degrees (a right angle) the hypotenuse length is 1.414 times the effective length of the SCU arm.

This then will tell you how much sheet travel you can get from a swinging arm SCU Obviously it depends on how long the arm is, and where the limit switches stop the unit from further rotation.

2. Next problem is, how much sheet line travel do you need? Well, if you think about it a moment, the same isosceles triangle setup applies, for example, to your main boom. The length of "c" in the formula above is the distance from your boo,.-.1 gooseneck swivel to the place the sheet line attaches to the boom, and the angle A is the angle from the centerline of the yacht to the place where your boom hits the sidestay - OK? Looking at the formula again, then, "a" has to be the hypotenuse,or the length of the sheet line needed to let the boom move from midships to full out. Again, obviously, how much sheet line you need depends on how far out on the boom the sheet line is attached, and how far you want the boom to swing. If it happens to be 90 degrees, you need 1.414 times the length of the boom for swivel to sheet attachment point.

3. Next question is, where's your high school trig book -- the one with the sine table in it? Your wife threw it out with your WW2 uniform. Never fear! Harris_ has thought of everything. Take a look at the attached graph(separate post). Let's assume you are working on a. kit yacht whose manufacturer has told you where to bring the sheet out through the deck (and, I hope) to attach it to the boom directly above the exiting point.

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First, find the effective length of the boom. Let's assume it is 10 inches, and that inspection of the drawings tells us that 80 degrees of boom swing is needed.

Enter the graph on the horizontal axis (SCU- arm or boom length) at the 10" mark and go directly up until the 10" line intersects the 80 degree diagonal line.

--

Now go horizontally from that point to the left and you will read, the vertical axis, less than 13 inches (which is the amount of sheet travel you need.

--

Now how to make the SCU give it to you?

Well, let's again assume that .at your SCU is set right now for 100 degrees of travel between limits. So, come back from the left side at the 13 inch point, until you intersect the 100 degree diagonal and then drop straight down.

You'll find that you hit the horizontal axis at just short of 8 1/2". This is the length arm needed on your SCU.

4. What's that? It won’t fit the hull. The arm is too long? Great Ceasar's Goat:! Seriously, don't panic all will be well. Using our winch-craft, lets's cast a spell, and fix, the problem.

The graph we're working with is built on the assumption that the sheet end is attached to the winch arm, (what us experts call "single purchase" and all we have to do is pass the sheet line through the SCU arm hole to which the sheet line was to be tied, and run it back in the direction it

came from, securing it to something, in the hull.

I like to use a small wood block with a screweye in it. Now, when the arm moves, it will -move twice as line for the same amount of rotation, so we can use an arm exactly half as long—or 4 1/2 inches. 1f that won' t fit in your yacht, it' is a submarine and you have been. misled! Actually, you can go as far as triple purchase arrangements this way, but I don't recommend going further than that.

5. Don't worry about being too, too precise in all this. -First the line you us stretch a bit, anyway, you’ll make your touch-up adjustments in boat, if you’re smart.

Fiberglass notes from THE FIBERGLASS MODEL YACHT BUILDERS GUIDE by David L. Mainwaring 1979

This is a guide to assist the model builder in building model sailing boats from kits with fiberglass hulls and associated components.

"FIBERGLASS"

Fiberglass is the common name for glass reinforced plastics, GRP. The strands are produced in a non-woven cloth called matt and in a woven cloth called fiberglass cloth, boat cloth, tooling cloth and woven roving. After the cloth has been saturated with resin and the resin cured (hardened) we have fiberglass. Fiberglass matt and cloth are sold by the yard in small lots by retailers and by the pound by wholesale suppliers. Matt and cloth are designated in thickness by referring to their weights. Matt is weighed by the square foot with 3/4 to 3 oz. matt being most common. Cloth is also weighed but unlike matt it is weighed by the yard. Thus a 9 oz, cloth has the same glass content as 1 oz, matt. Matt and cloth have different handling characteristics and different conformability as well as different impact and strength factors. Working with matt using brush-on resin requires skill and experience to avoid developing one big mess of glass fibers and resin. You will find with a little practice that matt conforms well when worked with a resin-covered surface with a constantly wet brush. A matt called surfacing matt can be used to work the regular matt in place and squeeze out air bubbles and excess resin. This matt is hard to obtain other than from wholesalers. A layer of cloth works well for surfacing if you can stand the added weight. Fiberglass cloth put up in tape form is widely available. It is a convenient way of getting high quality cloth in small quantities. It is important for the glass resin combination to have as high a glass content as possible for strength. Fiberglass cloths used in boat building must have a special treatment called Chroming to make the glass compatible with the resin. Do not use industrial or auto grade fiberglass cloth unless it is treated.
Fiberglass (GRP) laminates will absorb water through the capillary action of the glass fibers. The problem of water absorption and surface abrasion is overcome in the molding stage by adding a specially formulated resin known as gelcoat. Although gel-coat is available clear, it is usually pigmented to give the surface resin a molded-in color. Polyesters and lay up resins can be pigmented giving the part a solid color throughout. This is an inexpensive way of molding color in but it presents two problems - hidden air bubbles within the laminate and exposing glass strands.

Star 45 R/C model sail boat | Resins, tips and tricks

Polyester resins are formulated in many make ups. To change the liquid resin to a solid you must add a hardener to catalyze the mixture. Whenever resin is referred to in this manual it is intended that it be properly catalyzed before use. The resin you choose for your model should be pre-accelerated. This resin will commonly have a purplish hue in the liquid stage and may change color to indicate states of cure. Resins should be at room temperature (60°-90°F. ) for curing. Among the polyester resins `available are the air, inhibited types. Lay up, spray, and gel-coat resins are formulated so their surfaces will not cure readily while exposed to air. This is advantageous if several layers of glass are to be laminated over a period of time. However, it may present a problem to the unsuspecting buildr who finds the surface of his resin "forever tacky". Sometimes, applying a layer of hard .bowling, alley wax will solve this problem. Gel- coat resins therefore, are' not used as a finish coating on completed boats because they are air-inhibited.

Finishing resin or hand-lay-up resin is commonly a waxed resin. When special waxes are formulated in the resin they will move to the surface as the resin cures. This is an advantage if this is the outer surface. If you want to bond to: this, surface you must first sand it thoroughly and then '" prepare, the surface with acetone or polyester solvent.

Polyester resins may be thinned with acetone and styrene. The common polyester hardener is methyl ethyl kettle peroxide (MEK60). -Resin and hardener 'must' be handled most carefully and in strict accordance with the manufacturers -instructions. The amount of hardener or activator in conjunction `with the room or ambient temperature determines the jel time and the cure' rate' of the resin. The jel time is the period that the resin remains liquid until it turns to a jelly just before curing hard. Resin has a "pot life" and is only workable for the time before it jels; this may vary from seconds to several minutes. CAUTION-DO NOT use too much hardener. Styrene will thin the resin' and become chemically part of the cured resin. Acetone will thin the resin but will evaporate during cure. Acetone will change the characteristics of the cured resin and may result in brittleness and other unwanted characteristics.

Polyesters may be filled with a '