Star 45

Star 45

Thursday, November 22, 2007

Star45 construction:winch and steering servo | Radio Tray

From: "J Fisher"
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2007 20:54:05 -0700 (Mountain Standard Time)

The radio tray is to hold the winch and steering servo. No provisions for water proofing. When sailing is fresh water I tape the receiver under the deck and everything else is open. The boats tend to be a little wet due to the low freeboard, but as long as I drain between races I have no issues. For salt water I am thinking of adding one of the radio pots from bantock. I would only put my receiver and batteries in that, everything else is open.

Monday, September 10, 2007

RE: [Star45] Fwd: [Sailing Models Breeze Chasers] New comment on RC Laser {from Tillerman}.

At Monday 9/10/2007 03:35 AM -0700, Ed Hilton posted:
>I found this site while looking for info on the star 45
>He does classic IOD boats as well


Good site.
>Star, Etchells 22, and IOD models, half models and laser cut frames
>International Star Class models
>I built Star 3909 in 1957 and raced her on Lake Hopatcong, NJ and Long Island Sound. Over the years I have owned 3 other Stars and now offer Star Class laser cut frames for Star 45 Class and other size models of the Star. Star models are very easy to build due to their flat sides and small arc bottom.

Take a look at the number of models and lazer cut frames

He "now offer(s) Star Class laser cut frames for Star 45 Class"

Now If I can only get the comments approval to work on

Dave Mainwaring

Tuesday, May 29, 2007


GET THAT TOPPING LIFT RIGHT (if you wanna go fast)!
By Phil Geren

Of all the go fast stuff I have learned from tuning experts over the past year, the most valuable, and the thing that has provided the most additional boat speed for my 13#-3.5oz Star 45 (the "Fat Lady") is how to get the Jib's topping lift set right. I am doing much better in my racing since learning this.

The curve of the leech of the Jibsail MUST resemble as closely as possible the curve of the leeward surface of the Mainsail when sighting from the foredeck. If the Jib's leech is flatter or fuller your boat will not attain its speed potential while beating and reaching.

The topping lift enables you to get the curves aligned. Tightening the topping lift makes the Jib's leech fuller, more curved. Loosening the topping lift makes the Jib's leech flatter. With a little practice you can get the curves to be identical.

Here's how:

Pull the Mainsail in to the beating position; Swivel the Jib boom with your finger (apply only lateral force, no upward or downward force on the Jib boom) so that when you sight from the foredeck and look up and down the curve of the windward surface of the leech of the Jibsail it is superimposed on the curve of the back (leeward) surface of the Mainsail.

Are the curves identical? If not, is the Jib's leech more curved?
If it is, loosen the topping lift.

If the Jib's leech is flatter, tighten the topping lift.

Make small adjustments. This is very sensitive, and you can get it right if you persevere.
Recheck the need for adjustment after every few heats of racing or if you change anything else.

On sailboats EVERYTHING is related to everything else, and you will need to readjust periodically to maintain your added speed.

Don't have a topping lift? INSTALL ONE NOW! You won't believe the improvement!

Sunday, May 27, 2007

Tips on setting Spektrum up with an RMG Smart

From: "J Fisher"

Subject: Re: [Star45] Spektrum Radio question - Star 45


I have used the same setup you are using for a while now. I have not had any power issues with the RMG since it seems to have a good voltage regulator. My brother has had issues in the CR914 using 4 cell packs. I use 5 cell packs and have recently started using 2 cell lipo's.

Depending on the age of your RMG you will need to add a pulser to make it work with the spektrum receiver. If you have a RMG 280 C or a recent 280D it isnt an issue, but there are some 280Ds that need the pulser, check the RMG site for the serial #'S effected. I have used the pulser with good results. You do need to make a harness so you can program the winch. Photo attached.

The harness is has a female to attach to the winch and then 2 male ends. One of the male ends has the + and - power and is plugged into an open channel or battery slot on the receiver. The other male end can have a switch in it or just inset and remove the plug as needed to interrupt the signal. This can be make out of an aileron extension available from LHS. If using a pulser, it should be placed on the signal line for programming.


-------Original Message-------

From: Ted
Date: 5/24/2007 11:32:23 AM
Subject: [Star45] Spektrum Radio question - Star 45

I just purchased a Spektrum DX6 radio for my Star 45. Does
anyone have any Tips on setting it up with an RMG Smart Winch and
using it with the Star 45? I purchased a larger capacity NiMH
battery for the transmitter to improve run time. I understand that
the radio / receiver may experience a power hit that may cause the
radio to reset -- resulting in no control for 5 or 6 seconds. Anyone
experience this problem? I purchased a Spektrum Voltage Protector to
solve the problem. Any comments would be appreciated.

Ted Mahoney

Star45 : naca0009 rudder

Star45 : Message: Re: [Star45] Photo's of naca0009 rudder: "Re: [Star45] Photo's of naca0009 rudder

I am happy with how they turned out. I sent the production files to Stevens Monday, so you should be able to order a rudder if you need one. He doesn't have it posted yet, but if you call him he can cut them for you.
I built mine by clamping all the pcs together with the alignment pins in place (1/8 sq stock left over from stringers). Then CA'd it together with thin CA. I used my random orbital sander with 150 grit to shape it. Took about 15 min or so. With the different layers you can see if you are removing material evenly. Once sanded I sprayed the rudder with 3M 77, covered with 3 oz glass, one PC folding it over the leading edge so there is no seam on the leading edge. I then added resin and vac bagged in my handy food saver. The next day I pulled off the breather and peel ply, sanded smooth and varnished.

The glass is probably not needed since the core is made out of ply. I used the glass to ensure it is not coming apart and only adds another 10 min or so to do. With the vac bagging it is very smooth and uniform with only a little sanding required to remove the texture of the peel ply. I did buy a yard of breather and peel ply, but waxed paper with holes in it and paper towels can be substituted."

Star45 : naca0009 rudder on a Skiddo

Star45 : Message: Re: [Star45] Photo's of naca0009 rudder: "Re: [Star45] Photo's of naca0009 rudder

Yes, you could use the rudder on a skid-do. I am pretty sure that the
skid-do uses a 5/32 shaft, so use the parts cut for the 5/32 shaft. they
might need a slight bit of shimming, 1/32 or so due to the way the
thicknesses worked out.

I am not going to sell them, but I will provide the cutting files to
Stevens aero if you would like to order a set or if you have a local
cutter I can provide the files for cutting. There is a PDF version that
you can print out and cut your own in the yahoo groups file section as

The size is based loosly on the current skid-do/CPM rudder, but squared
off to make construction easier.


S45 Construction : The Perfect Cradle

Star45 : Message: New use for St.John's Lasercut Frames-Cradle Making: "John,
I needed a cradle for the hull of my woodie Star 45 under construction, to hold the hull while I fair the gunnels to the frames in preparation for installation of the deck and while I design and install the controls (keel is not on yet).
Well, the easiest way to make a perfect cradle is by using the holes (which are left in the John Fisher lasercut frame sheets after removal of the lasercut frames, to trace the exact shapes of the outsides of frames 2, 4, 6, 8, and 10 onto 3/8' thick plywood. Allow for the thickness of planking and carpeting by drawing a second trace for each frame so that the hole for the hull is 3/8' bigger everywhere than the frame. Then cut out each second trace as the inside of a frame for a cradle. Mount the cradle frames on a 2'X4' piece of particle board, using the spacing of the balsa template included in the frames kit, and using a try square to get them vertical, and making sure that they are all on the same longitudinal center and all parallel. Then hot glue 1' wide strips of carpeting to the insides of the cradle frames. Voila! A perfect hull cradle. I took some photos and will email them this weekend.
Phil Geren"

Star45 : Message: The Perfect Cradle: "

Here are the hull cradle fotos I promised you.

Your shadow invention is so useful. The holes left in the plywood sheets after punching out the frames were used as templates to draw perfect frames for a cradle to hold the hull for completion of the construction (before keel installation).

Thanks so much!
Best regards,
Phil Geren"

Tuesday, April 24, 2007

Star 45 Sails, Colors, materials,

Apr 2007 Subject: [Star45] Sails - colors
From: "Larry Ludwig" mailing list

You can have colored sails, it doesn't mean that you have to compete with them. Even if you do, don't discount them all that much. You can make your own from ripstop and the colors are all available. The material is inexpensive enough that even if you do botch the first few attempts it's not going to set you back more than $10.00

Learning to make sails teachs you more about TRIMMING sails and the way they take a "set" than sailing a boat ever will.

If you set your mainsail luff as a bolt rope (and you should IMHO) then it takes only a few seconds to pop off your mast head or foot, slide out one sail and slide in the other. Then if your jib is setup as a hook attachment to a hole in the mast, you unhook from the deck, unhook from the mast and voila, you are ready to hook both ends of the 2nd sail and you are complete. You should be able to change the sails on your boat in 2 minutes if you are properly set up. Of course, using a 2nd mast and complete rig is even faster. If you setup so your turnbuckles remain on the deck, then they are ready to go regardless of which rig you chose, and you reduce the cost of a 2nd rig by $40 right there.

Don't discount ripstop sails too much. They may not be all the rage... but I promise you the skipper skill factor is WAY more important than the sail material. I have rip stop sails here that have lasted 20 years, if they are well cared for, they will last. Skippers familiar with the Vic class will remember a Regional Regatta being won with a stock ripstop mainsail last year ( I think it was)

Give it a shot, you won't be sorry you did. *and it DOES look very nice on your boat.
From: "J Fisher" Sender: Subject: Re: [Star45] Sails - colors

I have seen people in the 914 fleet use colored markers to color sails. I think it was mostly to tell the boats apart, but there were some interesting designs. You could probably paint your sails as well to get color.
From: I have made a lot of sail and could put together a step by step to make sails.

I use mylar which I buy from They only carry clear, so I sand it to make it translucent. It colors well with markers so that would be one way to make colored sails. To make sails you can use the sail block based on the method provided on the star 45 yahoo groups by John Whitford or you can use the block from great basin, which is based on the Sweede Johnson sail block. I have used the sweede block with good results.
From: "Larry Ludwig" Sender: Subject: RE: [Star45] Sails - colors

You can make panelled sails, but it is not required. You can get PLENTY of use out of a single panelled sail. They actually have some advantages in high winds because of the less draught. Also, but putting in the luff curve and using a bolt-rope main, you do have a sail with some draught to it, not just a flat sheet of cloth. The block method works fine, but also.. is not required. Basically you cut the bottom panel seam flat, and draw your airfoil MAC (mean aerodynamic chord) and cut it with a #9 X-acto or scissors. Use seamstress tape and overstitch. Do the same thing with the luff curve, and hem the foot and leech and you are about there. Oversew some corner panels, tack on some batten pockets and thread in a piece of weed-eater line up the hem of the luff and you are ready to put on your class markings and numbers. Grommets in the corners are installed either with a seamstress tool or they could be ordered from Don Ginther at GBMY if he is still shipping, he was in the process of suspending operations.

Where to find the material? Nylon ripstop is inexpensive... typically $6-$7 (x 38-50" long bolt) a yard at LONDON's Fabrics or HANCOCK Fabrics, sometimes you will find it at HOBBY LOBBY retail stores, but if you check your local fabric store you will most likely come up with some in various colors. Also using contrasting thread colors can make the sail more attractive. Start with a single panel sail and go through all the steps. When you are ready to start making paneled sails... don't be afraid to make them out of paper first. Typical brown paper can be cut and taped together and makes a perfect mock up of the sail for pennies.
From: "Al Stein" Sender: Subject: [Star45] Re: Sails - colors

I think I got mine from Potomac Sailmakers in Alexandria, Virginia... I bought yellow and orange, but they had a bunch of different colors in spinnaker cloth, and very light weight and airtight it is.

It's fairly stiff, too, for as light as it is -- something well under an ounce per yard. Price about the same as Larry experienced... less than $10 a running yard from a BIG WIDE bolt (can't remenber exact width, but it was much wider than normal fabric store goods.
From: "John & Kelly" Sender: Subject: RE: [Star45] Sails - colors

I have built US One Meter sails from spinnaker cloth purchased from Sailrite.

I used .5 oz which is only available in red, white, and blue, but .75 oz is available in a multitude of colors.

The part I like best about these materials is you can buy a role of C3 spinnaker tape (pricey at $25.00) and build a set of sails without sewing a stitch.

They actually use C3 to tape together the body seams of full scale spinnakers so I'm pretty sure it can take just about anything a model can throw at it.

I've built two sets of sails and only used about 10% of my role of tape so that $25.00 will go a long way.

At about $12.00 a yard, spinnaker cloth is twice the cost of fabric store ripstop, but spinnaker cloth is coated with resin that makes it far more stable and eliminates all porosity (wind can blow right through ripstop). I also haven't tried using C3 on plain ripstop, so I can't say how the bond will hold up.

For cutting fabric like this I'd use a hot knife. I bought a $4.00 40watt soldering iron at the local mega-mart, removed the tip, hammered it flat, and put it back in. Cutting works best over a smooth heat resistant surface. I use my glass topped kitchen table (when my wife's not home).

Friday, April 20, 2007

[Star45] Update on planking bottom with edge glueing.

[Star45] Update on planking bottom with edge glueing.

John Fisher is ready { 4/19/2007 } to glass his latest boat and is sharing how he planked it. His dad built a ply sided, cedar planked star using titebond II and it came out pretty light and stiff. With this information I started to build another hull using the same materials. He felt that edge gluing the planks added a lot of the strength to his boat. John didn't want to glue in extra wood to hold the pins to keep the planks in place for the glue to dry, so I combined two methods of planking. John liked the quickness of planking with CA and kicker, but it lacked stiffness when sanding the bottom before glassing. So he decided to edge glue the planks and then tack them in place to the frames with CA.

In this photo you can see where John put drops of CA on the planks. The wood is slightly darker.

It worked well. John has an edge glued bottom and he was able to plank it in one evening. To do this John first spray the frames with kicker, then apply titebond III to the edge of the planks. He then would hold the plank in place, tight against the previous plank, and apply a drop of CA to each frame to hold it in place. It did not matter where John started, bow, stern, or middle, but do make sure the CA has set up before moving to the next frame. Once the whole plank was in place he came back and wiped off the extra titebond. To fair the bottom to the sides he used a $10, 6" plane from home depot set at .010" depth of cut. It quickly removed the cedar and a little sanding finished the job.

John had one plank that was too thin that he had to remove, it was harder than expected. He had the use quite a bit of force to break the glue joint at each frame, so he is confident that this method is strong. John will also use this for balsa planked bottoms.

In photo # 10 you can see the stern still needs to be trimmed and sanded. John will probably use a saw to trim in close and then sand to fair it.

Star 45 DECK John Fisher 4/19/2007

4/19/2007 John Fisher just finished the deck rigging last night on his latest boat. The boat is set up pretty simple. Open loop with elastic. Winch is below deck, but the same rigging setup can be used with an on deck winch, just substitute a turning block for the through deck block.

The sheets go forward to a block on a bridle for the main sheet. The jib sheet and elastic go through a double block attached to the chain plate to keep things from rubbing on the mast, then through an adjustable double block forward. The jib sheet then goes back to a deck mounted block. The elastic is then hooked to a loop on deck. John put a hook in the elastic so he can release tension when in storage.

Chain plates and mast step are laid out per Scott Rowlands tuning guide.

In tweaker photo bellow you can see the tweaker servo and winch mount.

Thursday, March 22, 2007

MainZone International, ship models, R/C, radio control, Sailing Models, wooden boats, model boat, Star45, Star 45

MainZone International, ship models, R/C, radio control, Sailing Models, wooden boats, model boat, Star45, Star 45: "How to Build a
Wooden Sailing Model Boat

'Building a model made simple.'

See how to build to Build a radio controlled Wooden Sailing Model Boat. Enjoy the pleasure of wooden boat building. Based on the International Star Boat this semi-scale Star45 can be scratch built by novice or seasoned skipper. Easily radio controlled and large enough to see out on the water this is a classic model model built by hobbyists for over thirty years.

Here are downloadable files for Star 45 shadows - frames. You can use your browser to download the files. Click on link or go to select the files you want and they will download to your machine"

Friday, March 16, 2007

Jib Tweaker, adjusts lenght of jib sheet VS Jib Twitcher

Jib tweaker with swing arm sail control unit:

Adding a servo to the end of the jib sheet allows the jib to be "tweaked" by changing the effective length of the sheet while under sail. The challenge is to set the servo to mid point when setting the model up prior to sailing.

Tweaker with drum type sail control unit.

A jib twicher is a rig that pulls the jib boom to port or to starboard when sailing down wind.

These to devices are often confused with each other :)

Monday, March 05, 2007

Step by step model building instructions available

If you want to read step by step instructions please visit:
Model Sail Boat Building, How To Build A Wooden Star45 R/C Sailing Model.

This radio controlled sailing model is based on the International Star Boat.

This semi-scale wooden sailing model can be scratch built by novice or seasoned skipper.

Plans are available from the AMYA, Downloadable drawings to make laser cut bulkheads are available.

The blog your are currenty reading is journal. Members and contributors post content in chronological order. This means you must search through the blog's content to find information.

I sorted all the building posts out into the workflow for making a model and posted the steps on Model Sail Boat Building, How To Build A Wooden Star45 R/C Sailing Model

Dave Mainwaring

Monday, February 12, 2007

S45 Construction - completed hull

From: "Daniel Denson"
To: "Dave Mainwaring"
Subject: star45 photos
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2007 20:01:39 -0600

S45 Construction - what happens when you use too much polyurethane glue

Picture #4 shows what happens when you use too much polyurethane glue. The squeezeout is unsightly. I used Gorilla Glue to attach the sides because it is flexible and it only needs to be spread on one side of the joint. It is much lighter than epoxy.

I used CA glue for the planking. First, kicker was sprayed on the plank. Then the plank was placed on the boat starting at one end. Thin CA was dribbled along the joint, and the plank was pressed against the next one. The pressing seemed to kick off the glue, which gave off smoke as it bonded. I continued this from back to front, one frame at a time, until the whole plank was attached.

Also shown is the hardwood chainplate support. I doubled it for strength. If I was thinking, I would have doubled on top, so it would help support the deck.

S45 Construction - fore and aft views of the hull beside the building board.

From: "Daniel Denson"
To: "Dave Mainwaring"
Subject: star45 photos
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2007 20:01:39 -0600

Hi, Dave
Here are some pictures I took yesterday of my glassed hull plus some commentary:

Pictures #1 & #2 are fore and aft views of the hull beside the building board. I used hardwood plywood with MDF cleats biscuit joined at the edges to keep it flat. Afterward, the whole thing was run over a jointer to make it perfectly flat.

Unfortunately, I wasn't quite as careful gluing on the balsa spacing strips. Although a straightedge was used, the balsa bent away from the straightedge a fraction around form #8. This could have been avoided if the spacing strips were plywood (or I was not a klutz).

Another goof was waiting too long to put on the stringers. After 4 days on the board in Houston humidity, the forms all warped noticeably. Even the transom was crooked. I actually had to use the stringers to align the frames! Don't do this.

S45 Construction -- the stern

From: "Daniel Denson"
To: "Dave Mainwaring"
Subject: star45 photos
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2007 20:01:39 -0600

Star 45 Hull, -- BOW

From: "Daniel Denson"
To: "Dave Mainwaring"
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2007 20:01:39 -0600

Saturday, February 10, 2007

Keel Tubes installation -- S45 cedar hull -- John Fisher

Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2007 17:18:41 -0700 (Mountain Standard Time)
From: "J Fisher"
To: "Dave mainwaring"
Subject: Photo's of keel tube install on cedar hull

Dave, I am attaching 4 photo's showing the radio tray , keel tubes glued in , how I made the keel tubes , and the keel tubes installed .

I used brass tubes on this hull and found that they were very easy to align due to the snug fit in the drilled holes. Since this fin had the standard bolts on it I put a shoulder on the inside by soldering together a couple of different sized tubes. Photo shows one already soldered and the other before soldering. I will then take an aluminum rod and thread the end to hold the keel.

I then glued the tubes in the hull using JB weld since it has very good strength for bonding metal. That is the silver colored epoxy. Time will tell if it was a good choice.

The radio tray was simply two 1/8" X 3/8" spruce strips glued in. I also added a vertical reinforcing PC in the middle. All the joints were strengthened with a small PC of fiberglass that was held in place by 3M77 while gluing. I add the glass to make sure the joints never come apart. On one boat I had to cut the radio tray out when I moved it since the glassed glue joint was so strong.

This boat will have a deck mounted winch like the first 3 that I built.


keel tubes and rudder tube in CPM hull. -- John Fisher

From: "J Fisher"
To: "Dave mainwaring"
Subject: Photo's of glass star build

Dave, here are two photo's of how I aligned the keel tubes and rudder tube in my CPM hull.

Wednesday, January 31, 2007

Racy SUPER MODELS - radio controlled model yacht racing Boat/US Magazine

Racy SUPER MODELS - radio controlled model yacht racing Boat/US Magazine:

"Racy SUPER MODELS - radio controlled model yacht racing
Boat/US Magazine, May, 2000 by Elaine Dickinson

With the pop of the starting gun, all hands flew into action. Rudders strained to tack sharply and get on the favored side of the racing course; sails were trimmed tight as a drum to eke every last iota of speed out of the wind; waves slammed into bows and washed clear over the decks. And as the fleet raced toward the first turning mark, the atmosphere intensified and nervous fingers grabbed the toggle switches for additional maneuvering.

Toggle switches?

Model yacht racing, or 'RC' racing (for 'radio controlled') is what gets many boaters through the winter. It keeps the adrenaline flowing from the thrill of competition, albeit on a small scale. But, like boating, it offers camaraderie and fun that's easily accessible to anyone with working fingers and enough charged up AA batteries for an afternoon of sailing.

Thinking small is easier on the bank account as well. The outlay for a ready-to-sail RC boat is usually in the hundreds of dollars, not thousands. Access to the water is as simple to find as a quiet pond at a local park. Some cities have even built special yacht racing ponds, such as San Diego, because it's such an eye-catching attraction.

'Model racing is less of a commitment in terms of time as well as money,' said Dick Rutledge, a BoatU.S. member from Houston who is also the national vice president of the American Model Yacht Association (AMYA), the all-volunteer organization which sanctions classes of RC boats and all official races. 'I can have my model loaded and on the water in 20 minutes.'

Rutledge and his wife Nancy are avid racers on Lake Conroe in Texas and compete in their full-sized 'people boat,' a Ranger 22. One day at the dock, one of their Ranger class friends was playing with a model yacht and handed the control box to Rutledge. 'I was hooked,' he said, and now travels throughout the U.S. to compete in the Star 45 and 36/600 class races. His wife is a top competitor as well. The Rutledges also belong to the Houston Model Yacht Club, one of 120 in the U.S. that organize local races."

Thursday, January 18, 2007

The Big Day!! Star 45 Launch

From: John Whiteford

G'day ,
Great morning yesterday when we launched Oribi tho for the first time for some time the weather was overcast and the wind fickle. However all went well and she looked pretty good and some good comments from the few members there. Had a couple of nice gusts which pushed her along and she went well, so looking forward to next time. Took heaps of photos and attach the best here. Must qualify the CHRISTENING!! The phial in Julia's hand contains red wine which she rubbed over the bow with her finger....not allowed to take alcohol into this park!! So I drank the rest last night!!!!! Also please note the cap in PROUD OWNERS. I got quite a few comments re this!!! and stirred them up!!! I was wondering if any of these should be placed on the Star45 website and where. If you think so would you be kind enough to copy them there for me please Don. Also thanks for the advice on the bow bumper and will sort something out along that idea.
Kind regards,

Thursday, January 04, 2007

S45 Construction : rigging b.o.m. from John Fisher
From: 'J Fisher'
Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2007 21:02:38 -0700 (Mountain Standard Time)
Subject: Re: [Star45] Deck rigging and such

Here is the list on the star 45 yahoo groups for rigging. I am using the following for my next couple of builds:
GBMY item #, description, qty, purpose
019, 3/8' alloy tube, 1, Jib boom
034, Hales single block, 2, main and jib sheets
146, tapered drain plug, 1, plug in transom
182, Z sheet hook, 2, sheet ends/boom attachment
202, large bowsie, 1, back stay/forestay with 80 lb Dacron, order small ones if using spektra
206, O-rings, 1, hold the Z hooks to the boom.
254, double block, 2, main sheet and jib sheet adjuster
255, sheet exit, 1, turning block for main sheet from under deck to above deck.
269, eye plate, 1, mounting for jib block.
272, 180 deg sheet lead, 1, turn around for jib tweaker
280, sheet hook, 1, hooks for backstay and fore stay.
282, tang, 1, attach lowers to mast.
907, rigging screw, 4 hooks, 2 packs, upper and lowers to the deck.

I also build my own chain plates, so I don't order them from GBMY. Don does carry them if you need them. I also like the Ludwig mast better than the bantock mast, so I ordered 8 foot masts cut to 69' from Larry Ludwig, the other 28' or so is the main boom. Last time I made all my own boom vang, mast fitting. This time I ordered them from Larry. You can use the bantock mast, boom, and fittings from GBMY as well. They are good stuff and I have them on my IOM.

The back stay crane is made from 1/16 (.063') aluminum that I bought at the local hobby shop.


Wednesday, January 03, 2007

S45 Construction : Re: Woodie construction tip

From: 'Mitch Martin'
Date: Wed, 03 Jan 2007 00:01:50 -0000
Subject: [Star45] Re: Woodie construction tip

Thanks for the encouragement! To answer your questions: I CAed the
1/32' bass wood to the frames and stringers. When I epoxy the
inside it will make the permanent bond. The layers of veneer are
cold molded with system 3 epoxy. I will have two layers on the
bottom and one on the sides, then glass with epoxy and .6 oz glass
cloth. Then one more layer of veneer. I do intend to laser some
patterns into the veneer. Then I'll finish with more clear epoxy
(probably west) and then varnish. Like I said, it's not going to be
light, but will look like a jewelery box when done.

--- In, Drake Dunivan
> Thanks for that tip, its always nice to learn from
> someone elses mistakes :)
> What are you using for the adhesive? CA? Tightbond
> III?
> Hopefully everything else goes smoothly.
> drake
> --- Mitch Martin wrote:
> > I just made a mistake on my woodie and wanted to
> > pass along the tip.
> > You must install the side planks before installing
> > the botton planks.
> >
> > I tried to do the bottom first and it bent the thin
> > chine rails up and
> > now I have a wavy chine. It can be sanded out a
> > little but it's not
> > as good as I would have liked. Also, I have started
> > veneering the
> > hull with .035' maple and mohagany veneers. Should
> > be nice looking
> > when done.
> >
> > Best, Mitch
> >"