Star 45

Star 45

Tuesday, May 29, 2007


GET THAT TOPPING LIFT RIGHT (if you wanna go fast)!
By Phil Geren

Of all the go fast stuff I have learned from tuning experts over the past year, the most valuable, and the thing that has provided the most additional boat speed for my 13#-3.5oz Star 45 (the "Fat Lady") is how to get the Jib's topping lift set right. I am doing much better in my racing since learning this.

The curve of the leech of the Jibsail MUST resemble as closely as possible the curve of the leeward surface of the Mainsail when sighting from the foredeck. If the Jib's leech is flatter or fuller your boat will not attain its speed potential while beating and reaching.

The topping lift enables you to get the curves aligned. Tightening the topping lift makes the Jib's leech fuller, more curved. Loosening the topping lift makes the Jib's leech flatter. With a little practice you can get the curves to be identical.

Here's how:

Pull the Mainsail in to the beating position; Swivel the Jib boom with your finger (apply only lateral force, no upward or downward force on the Jib boom) so that when you sight from the foredeck and look up and down the curve of the windward surface of the leech of the Jibsail it is superimposed on the curve of the back (leeward) surface of the Mainsail.

Are the curves identical? If not, is the Jib's leech more curved?
If it is, loosen the topping lift.

If the Jib's leech is flatter, tighten the topping lift.

Make small adjustments. This is very sensitive, and you can get it right if you persevere.
Recheck the need for adjustment after every few heats of racing or if you change anything else.

On sailboats EVERYTHING is related to everything else, and you will need to readjust periodically to maintain your added speed.

Don't have a topping lift? INSTALL ONE NOW! You won't believe the improvement!

Sunday, May 27, 2007

Tips on setting Spektrum up with an RMG Smart

From: "J Fisher"

Subject: Re: [Star45] Spektrum Radio question - Star 45


I have used the same setup you are using for a while now. I have not had any power issues with the RMG since it seems to have a good voltage regulator. My brother has had issues in the CR914 using 4 cell packs. I use 5 cell packs and have recently started using 2 cell lipo's.

Depending on the age of your RMG you will need to add a pulser to make it work with the spektrum receiver. If you have a RMG 280 C or a recent 280D it isnt an issue, but there are some 280Ds that need the pulser, check the RMG site for the serial #'S effected. I have used the pulser with good results. You do need to make a harness so you can program the winch. Photo attached.

The harness is has a female to attach to the winch and then 2 male ends. One of the male ends has the + and - power and is plugged into an open channel or battery slot on the receiver. The other male end can have a switch in it or just inset and remove the plug as needed to interrupt the signal. This can be make out of an aileron extension available from LHS. If using a pulser, it should be placed on the signal line for programming.


-------Original Message-------

From: Ted
Date: 5/24/2007 11:32:23 AM
Subject: [Star45] Spektrum Radio question - Star 45

I just purchased a Spektrum DX6 radio for my Star 45. Does
anyone have any Tips on setting it up with an RMG Smart Winch and
using it with the Star 45? I purchased a larger capacity NiMH
battery for the transmitter to improve run time. I understand that
the radio / receiver may experience a power hit that may cause the
radio to reset -- resulting in no control for 5 or 6 seconds. Anyone
experience this problem? I purchased a Spektrum Voltage Protector to
solve the problem. Any comments would be appreciated.

Ted Mahoney

Star45 : naca0009 rudder

Star45 : Message: Re: [Star45] Photo's of naca0009 rudder: "Re: [Star45] Photo's of naca0009 rudder

I am happy with how they turned out. I sent the production files to Stevens Monday, so you should be able to order a rudder if you need one. He doesn't have it posted yet, but if you call him he can cut them for you.
I built mine by clamping all the pcs together with the alignment pins in place (1/8 sq stock left over from stringers). Then CA'd it together with thin CA. I used my random orbital sander with 150 grit to shape it. Took about 15 min or so. With the different layers you can see if you are removing material evenly. Once sanded I sprayed the rudder with 3M 77, covered with 3 oz glass, one PC folding it over the leading edge so there is no seam on the leading edge. I then added resin and vac bagged in my handy food saver. The next day I pulled off the breather and peel ply, sanded smooth and varnished.

The glass is probably not needed since the core is made out of ply. I used the glass to ensure it is not coming apart and only adds another 10 min or so to do. With the vac bagging it is very smooth and uniform with only a little sanding required to remove the texture of the peel ply. I did buy a yard of breather and peel ply, but waxed paper with holes in it and paper towels can be substituted."

Star45 : naca0009 rudder on a Skiddo

Star45 : Message: Re: [Star45] Photo's of naca0009 rudder: "Re: [Star45] Photo's of naca0009 rudder

Yes, you could use the rudder on a skid-do. I am pretty sure that the
skid-do uses a 5/32 shaft, so use the parts cut for the 5/32 shaft. they
might need a slight bit of shimming, 1/32 or so due to the way the
thicknesses worked out.

I am not going to sell them, but I will provide the cutting files to
Stevens aero if you would like to order a set or if you have a local
cutter I can provide the files for cutting. There is a PDF version that
you can print out and cut your own in the yahoo groups file section as

The size is based loosly on the current skid-do/CPM rudder, but squared
off to make construction easier.


S45 Construction : The Perfect Cradle

Star45 : Message: New use for St.John's Lasercut Frames-Cradle Making: "John,
I needed a cradle for the hull of my woodie Star 45 under construction, to hold the hull while I fair the gunnels to the frames in preparation for installation of the deck and while I design and install the controls (keel is not on yet).
Well, the easiest way to make a perfect cradle is by using the holes (which are left in the John Fisher lasercut frame sheets after removal of the lasercut frames, to trace the exact shapes of the outsides of frames 2, 4, 6, 8, and 10 onto 3/8' thick plywood. Allow for the thickness of planking and carpeting by drawing a second trace for each frame so that the hole for the hull is 3/8' bigger everywhere than the frame. Then cut out each second trace as the inside of a frame for a cradle. Mount the cradle frames on a 2'X4' piece of particle board, using the spacing of the balsa template included in the frames kit, and using a try square to get them vertical, and making sure that they are all on the same longitudinal center and all parallel. Then hot glue 1' wide strips of carpeting to the insides of the cradle frames. Voila! A perfect hull cradle. I took some photos and will email them this weekend.
Phil Geren"

Star45 : Message: The Perfect Cradle: "

Here are the hull cradle fotos I promised you.

Your shadow invention is so useful. The holes left in the plywood sheets after punching out the frames were used as templates to draw perfect frames for a cradle to hold the hull for completion of the construction (before keel installation).

Thanks so much!
Best regards,
Phil Geren"